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If you saw variability with moving the connector around, and you've already reported a lot of corrosion on the contacts, honestly, I'd replace that connector. It's a pay-me-now or pay-me-later situation. I'd not consider it urgent (stop driving now), but I'd consider it a risk in the field if you do...

For a long time at higher RPMs (>3,000) my tach (Sun Super Tach II) sometimes bounces around a lot, but it's super stable at lower RPMs. I've largely dismissed it as a tach issue, but today I noticed a cutting out of engine power on the highway and the bouncing needle was more dramatic so the issue ...

I've moved over to the Rotella camp, using T4 15W40. I'm contemplating T6 for the next change, and am wondering what others, who are using Rotella, ended up with and why?

The T6 is more expensive ($23 vs. $16/gal), but cost isn't a factor given TCO. Anyone see a downside with the T6 vs. the T4?

So....adjusted the timing to be about 2-3mm advance when cold, and no improvement. I don't think it's a mechanical thing because when it idles high after coming to a stop, it'll idle down correctly if pulled down by letting out the clutch a bit and releasing it. It now has the correct Pinz spark plu...

I had one stop working -- corrosion issue. I had another stop working -- pinched wire. Just suggesting to isolate the issue to avoid changing parts you don't need to. Note that I'm assuming the slave cylinder is doing its thing and the gears are engaging, and it's just the light that's not doing wha...

Did you confirm that the light comes on/off with grounding the wire to the switch? That'll isolate the issue.

So...mine was a real PITA to get working, and it sounds very similar to your situation. That center pin needs to move freely up and down -- mine didn't. I was able to tap it with a pin punch and lots of lubricant to get it to move, and luckily I got it into a state where there was the tiniest bit of...

No, I've never come across an operating clock/tachometer combo guage in that diameter. I appreciate that you asked a different question, but if you'd like to keep the clock, have you considered a speedometer/tachometer combo guage instead? Many more options there and it would achieve the same funct...

Has anyone found a tachometer with hourmeter that will fit (same hole size) in the hole to the right of the fuel gauge? Mine has just an hourmeter there at present.

Something like in the below picture, but a tach not a clock.

Any chance you'll share the electrical/firmware details in case others want to pick up this work and learn from your developments? Or even just to help fix ones that break down? This long-lived electrical engineer is still working a day job, but retirement is on the near horizon and this might be a ...

Coming down to idle slowly (as in normal driving), the idle settles at around 1080-1100. If I tap the accelerator pedal and let it snap back, it'll drop down to about 970-1000 which feels more correct. Pulling the linkage by hand near the carbs won't bring the idle down. I'm looking for ideas on whe...

There are a lot of folks on this forum who have successfully converted to PinzSSI, fewer with Pertronix but they are out there. I posit that the number of people who *talk* about their ignition system isn't a reasonable indicator of how many *use* a particular system. I think Pertronix folks are la...

I'd pull the spark plugs and inspect them. That'll tell you a lot.
When the plugs are out, seize that moment to take a look with your borescope. Don't have one? They're cheap these days.
Still nothing? Compression check.

Down to 37-1/2 inches remaining.

I believe the Pertronix is separate from the cap/plugs as I have Pertronix with original plugs+wires+cap.