THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Re-opening this thread since I have a similar issue. @bbolander, are you sure the original fuel pump was not at fault? Early in the thread you said you saw fuel underneath it upon removal, but then later you felt the choke-plate misadjustment was the issue and you thought the pump was fine as were g...

Fair points.

I spent some time cleaning things pretty dry so I can see where it's originating from. Of course it's like finding the source of a leak in a roof -- it can be anywhere from the observation point upward. And yes, hopefully it's just extra assembly lube.

As noted, on mine the lower intake opening on the air intake housing goes to the heat exchanger port as pictured. My question is, again, why there is what appears to be an unused port (circled in green) on the heater valve box that is now blocked closed? The air intake is connected to the heat excha...

Does anyone know the right o-ring to fix this drip/leak? Jim (@goatwerks) just re-did the seals on this transmission, but apparently this one wasn't replaced so I need to drain the tranny and replace this one. I just need to know the right part #. Thanks in advance! IMG_20200328_144638_drip (Large)....

Yes, that's how it's all hooked up. My question to the group is if there are two different heat exchanger options as the drawing suggests. I'm pretty air-cooled engine savvy (VW and multiple aircraft), so I know the science and purpose of the connection, but Pinz-specific things are new to me so thu...

My guess is that this vehicle has a new heat exchange, and now gets the warmed air directly from that rather than a side-tap of what goes to the passengers. Does that sound correct, that vehicles came with different versions of the heat exchanger (GR 155), as suggested by the exploded view drawing? ...

My last understanding was 71/72 are easy in CA and 73/74 are expensive and risky requiring emissions testing at the expensive lab. YMMV.

My 710K doesn't have this hose, and the port on the heater box (bottom of image) appears to be blocked off. Did some vehicles not get this hose or is mine missing something it should have?

Excellent advice!

Upon inspection, that is the root issue -- the hose was biased too far forward, not giving the right service loop near the engine.

PS: I like that fancy orange striping for your airbox strap -- is that Chevrolet orange?

I do rest easy now that it has protection. :) Yes, it's a tough hose, but the wear is non-trivial and my bar is the airplane mechanic one -- head off all potential problems long before they could ever become issues. Best to address any disabling wear spots early. This same hose passes through the un...

I observed that the coil wire rubs on the oil cooler, and added a protective rubber covering as pictured.

You can't see it in the photo, but the clamp is positioned such that it doesn't contact the oil cooler.

Noticed a rub spot on the vacuum line that powers the brake booster. The hose rubs on the rubber gasket just below the fan shroud. You'll see a carefully-placed hose clamp added in the photo for protection.

A leak here would be bad for your engine.

Just to add to this thread for future searching, although my original plunger moved freely in the normal position, it had to be driven out. Measuring it, the inboard end was about 7mil larger diameter than the rest, thus the need for force to remove it. I clamped visegrips on it securing, and tapped...

I just loosened mine for the first time, and like yours, it was crazy tight. But using a pneumatic impact wrench with a tight fitting six-point socket I was able to get it loose. Will definitely use a torque wrench for reinstallation.

There is no apparent reset switch on this model that I can find.

When the switch is pulled out to the second position, all things slow to a halt (silence) and the dash light goes out.

Ideas?