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Same as mentioned by others -- mine were tightly stuck and it took some quality time with a thin putty knife and patience so things don't get bent. Likely heating it would help as well.

Be careful when you put it back on that you don't plug up the drain hole.

I used butyl rubber sealant tape for the joint. https://www.mcmaster.com/products/sealant-tape/material~butyl/ Butyl rubber is the stuff I see used most in automotive when you need to seal two pieces of body panel together, but would like to be able to separate them. It's all over my Toyota trucks ...

Lots of us have no choice other than E10, and I've not heard/read of gasket/diaphragm related issues. Just the normal water/corrosion issues that come with E10 vs. E0.

I see some advantages: -you keep your stock gear, so in case of problem with the electronic, it's not a big job to revert to centrifugal weights for advance control (just unlock them) -you can customize and load a timing advance map from their software -it has a MAP sensor to which you feed your va...

I've swapped my old gen starter for an EI version, but I'd like to fix up the OEM starter. Its bendix doesn't always engage, so I'm looking for a replacement bendix drive. I believe it's part #09-30-60. Anyone?

The starter is in now, and has successfully completed three starts. Subjectively, I'd say it spins about the same speed as the original, but with the expected additional gear noise that comes standard with gear-reduction starters. The EI starter is much lighter than OEM. My hints for others doing an...

First, it turns out the starter was mis-assembled from Scott's factory, and required partial disassembly and re-clocking. Required an impact wrench to loosen the two bolts that secure the mounting flange. Two issues remain, one small one bigger. Small issue: The starter motor compresses the sound-de...

Alas, no joy with the new EI gear-reduction starter. The lower nut & washer won't fit on when the starter is in place and tight against the mount.

I've opened a ticket with EI (Scott), and am awaiting a reply.

Ideas?

After listening to the group and reading the archives, it seems the likely culprit is the Bendix drive (one-way clutch). The new Bendix (for my v1 starter) seems to be not available (from SAV), and is about $200. Given that, I'm down the path of a new starter when balancing time, effort, and reliabi...

Starter is out and on the bench. Tips for anyone else removing a starter: - Disconnect battery (just to be safe) - Remove engine oil dipstick assembly (two bolts), and insert loose a 3/8in bolt into the hole as a cover to keep debris out. - Get the top nut off with a 19mm crow's foot wrench. It'll b...

Are there any best practices or tips folks would recommend for pulling the starter, ones that aren't obvious?

Thanks for the tip on a starter shop! Next step is to get it pulled out...

Yes, ring gear seems fine. Inspected it when I had the flywheel off. Starter teeth also looked fine at the time, and was advised that it maybe just needed lubrication. And it doesn't seem to be a ring-gear issue in that the crankshaft doesn't change position between the no-engage cycle and the subse...

Sometime the starter will spin and not engage. Could be as often as 50% of the time, but nearly always engages on second press of the starter button. Always makes a "clunk" when the starter spins down after a failed-engagement start attempt. I lubed it as best I could when I had the transm...