THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

I run Phillips 66 X/C aviation oil 20w50 in the plane and am tempted to do so in the Pinz, but simply haven't. I've looked for information about zinc content, and don't see any. The regular oil analysis widely varying numbers, so I don't know what to make of that. They range from 1 to 18ppm zinc ...

I'll add in that piston aviation is still mineral-oil based -- no synthetic. And most all are pushrod engines.

Also, zinc levels were apparently reduced for increase compatibility with catalytic converters -- not an issue for our vehicles, so we could freely bump up the zinc.

Interesting (to me ...

Yes! I'm waiting for the final assessment from this guy: https://youtu.be/a3uXSI9wQv8?si=1BEAXtu6UdUgOST9

He's reset my thinking on using Rotella in my older trucks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcJHJL5Ys-Y&t=757s
And here: https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/diesel-oil-in-gasoline-engine

Science ...

You turn them 60-degrees past contact, not 90-degrees.

IMHO, the bolts are fine to reuse so long as you know they've never been over-torqued. If the bolts haven't haven't been taken past their elastic zone, I don't see why they'd be unfit for reuse.

Of course, that's always an option. My intent is to try to avoid opening any connections.

I need to replace the ring gear on my flywheel but cannot seem to even
budge the six bolts holding it on. What's the trick?
I've even put a pneumatic impact wrench to them and no joy.

Any help appreciated

Mike

When I first did mine, my old-school pneumatic impact wrench was unable to break ...

I'm running Falken Wildpeak MT01 LT255/85R16 BW 123/120Q on OEM rims and I'm quite happy with the look and feel

What years of trucks have the risk of the red fuel tank liner coming apart, necessitating lots of time and/or $?

I've used walnut shell blasting to clean up aluminum alloy wheels, and for degreasing. It would, however, leave the finish very matte.

Can you confirm that this works with the original (OEM) shielded wires on the Pinz? I ask, because you didn't mention which ignition setup you used it with.

Most parts are readily available. Pricing is somewhere between Lexus and airplane part pricing.

If you want a good pre-buy inspection, reach out to Andre -- he's your go-to guy in The South.

Has anyone found a good timing light that is sensitive enough to pick up the signal via an inductive pick-up on the OEM shielded wires?

Currently, I remove the #1 wire from the distributor and insert a short section of unshielded wire for my late 1970's Craftsman inductive-pickup light, but I'm ...

Have you tried with the gearbox in 5th? Does the clutch slip before you reach final torque?

Is it true that there is no breather on the diffs? If so, I'd expect it *has* to push oil out somewhere during pressure increase (from temperature) events. Perhaps the design is such that it'll push out the axle seals first before the input shaft, and then it's just a matter of periodically topping ...

Interesting! Now if they just had a bead-lock version....


Let us know if you give 'em a try!