THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

On both my trucks, I had a need for a tranie rebuild. So while in there I replaced the clutch and pressure plate with a EI kit. I believe they are BMW 5-series but don't know what year/generation. IMHO go for the kit. BTW check and make sure you have no signs of oil leaks around the cam timing housi...

Love that truck Dave !! A fantastic "barn find"

The VW video is the correct approach. And NO, do not use sealant on the Head to Cylinder. None needed when lapped properly. If you have cylinders already fitted with pistons, clamp the head in a vise and rotate the cylinder (upside down) to avoid getting debris inside the cylinder. If the cylinders ...

Fantastic! Ya, a weak underbelly is Ground but also where the switched 24V is sourced.
When taking off from the Carb Solenoids, the terminal protrudes a bit and can get
whacked by the Doghouse then loosen up.

You are correct Whitesik! The first incarnation of PinzSSI was very sensitive to the health of the 24V batteries. Without getting into the details, In fact BOTH batteries have to be in decent shape esp. when cranking the engine over. If the voltage dropped low enough the SSI controller would stop wo...

I have several VDO catalogs, instruments are listed as either 12V or 24V but there are fewer 24V options. Their gauges are either 12V or 24V they do not support gauges that support both 12V or 24V. If you have a 12V tach and just want to use it, I'd recommend getting on Amazon or eBay and search for...

OK...... makes sense, it's a 1.0 with some improvements.
Check the voltages around the relay, control and output
and the ground connection. I never did like the way these
ground was done.

Paul, it will be interesting to see if Wondering Soul's setup does not have an Eaton and is relay control from the bottom battery. Unless the DCDC is in his battery bay? In any case I suspect it's a simple problem, bad ground or bad connection to switched 24V. I just did a conversion for a friend fr...

OK, that looks like a 1.0 version. That is a dual coil pack. And, what does appear to be a relay -- not 100% sure from the PIX, but let's assume it's a 24V relay and see where that takes you. If it is a relay, then it is likely controlled by switched 24V, either from tapping the Carb solenoid power ...

Can you take a picture of the coil and "relay" -- what you are describing is not a std. PinzSSI configuration. For Version 2, what you should see is a 24v to 12v DC-DC converter (Eaton) and a dual coil pack -- each coil fires cylinders 1/4 and 2/3 -- as a wasted spark system. There should ...

A little more awkward to do a top end job with the engine in place -- but no issue. Some comments...not in order per se. If you removed a head you should also remove that cylinder as the Cylinder-to-Block seal my fail, and those leaks are a huge PITA. The cylinders will have their size stamped on th...

#3 runs the hottest. Takes the most abuse.

Your #1 ain't great either. If all were in the
shape of even #4, it would be a case of getting
another season on it, worn but operable.

Now you know where the "El Fumar" is coming from

ron

Hmmm, sure looks like your rings are kaput. And you could hear the air escaping which is confirmation. Given the extent of work for a top end rebuild, I'd give it a second test at hot, but I suspect it won't make a big difference. Between 3 Pinzies, and one particularly cranky one -- I've done 4 top...

I became a proponent of leak down testing a couple of years ago. I began to notice a wee bit of loss in power on my 710 EFI, and suspected it was time for a top end job. First thing I did was a compression test as it's a quick way to tell you if there's a serious issue. Yup, #3 have VERY low pressur...

Well 120 psi is a bit on the low end of the range, but OK ... That said that appears to be a fair amount of blow by. It would be a good idea to redo your compression when hot -- it should improve with expanding rings and pistons -- if things are normal. Again, I'd suggest doing a leak down test, it ...