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Oh yeah, another question...

What's the maximum number of washer/spacers that can be added?
My float levels were way high on a carb with one (1mm) spacer already in place.

Also, is there any issues with each carb having different float valve spacing in order to get them each within specs?

Thanks again guys...

I've searched on this forum to no avail. My question remains... If my float level is too high , do I add or do I subtract spacer/washers from the float needle? It seems that adding the (1mm or .5mm) washers would increase the fuel and raise the level, so removing them would result in lowering the fl...

Wow, what a difference!
I think that I solved it. With the new (high elevation) jets, my trucks now start quicker and no longer belch smoke out of the exhaust as much. I suspect that my chronic plug fouling problem might also be remedied.

I have a set of main jets (#140) and idle jets (#60) for sale or trade for the #125 and #55 versions.
There are four of each which cost over $250 new.
I'm asking $150 or even trade.

I don't know if this will help or further confuse the issue but a 710M I bought a few years back that had the carbs set for higher altitudes (Idaho) were as follows: Idle Jet 55 Main Jet 125 Air Correction Jet 230 Idle Air Jet 130 I had to change the Idle Jet to 60 and the Main Jet to 140 to get th...

Ok now I'm REALLY confused! Your theories seem to make logical sense Pinzinator but Mr.Fixit's reply also makes sense. I figure that somebody is bound to know for certain which combo of jets is ideal for operation at the highest elevations. Before I go and buy a bunch of expensive new carbs jets, I ...

That's about all you can do, since the jets are the metering valves for the gas... I have no advice as to what sizes to install (besides smaller), but I'm sure someone has that information. Ok then carb gurus! Who has the info.? I'm confused as to which of the jets get tweaked for high altitude. Ap...

Partly because my two 710M's travel between 8,750 ft. and 13,200 ft. in altitude every day, they tend to run rich. Especially on the descent.
Besides changing out the carb jets, what else can I do to "lean them out" a bit?

Latest issue... Ok so I got all of the bolts off of the tail cone and body mount quite easily but when I pulled the cone back to remove it from the fixed bolts studs, the housing contacts the body mount bracket, preventing it from being fully removed. It seems that I'll have to jack up the entire bo...

undysworld wrote:IIRC, you slide an open end wrench onto it from the front. Sorry, it's been a long time.

Yes! You CAN easily get an open end wrench onto the nut on top of the body mount bolt. You access it from the space just under the bed and forward of the mount bracket.

Looking at the manual, it seems that the rear-most body mount (the one over the tail cone) does indeed have a nut on top. The question is, how do I get to it?
I'd hate to have to cut a hole through the floor. ??

I had trouble with my handbrake and was surprised when I dismantled it and oil ran out! I presumed it came from the rear diff pinion oil seal in the cone housing just forward of the brake disc. If you have oil in yours and the brake is binding, it could explain the smoke. Not sure about noise thoug...

Hi everyone, Perhaps this post should be in the "drivetrain" category but anyway... Earlier this summer I had a guide/driver make a mistake and drive for a bit with the hand brake still slightly engaged. Of course, this caused it to become weak and ineffective. Now, it seems to be causing ...

I'll often push in the clutch, leave the stickshift in gear, and just shift the transfer case lever to get the lower (or higher) gear that I'm looking for. While rolling!