THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Check out Tuffy security products; they make a "lock", a small box with key that fits over a bolt for theft protection. It's pretty heavy duty, but nothing is perfect.

Jake,
I made my deposit and have a quick question. I'm redoing some electrical and some upgrades. I need to leave space from my mods for the controller (box, brain...). Where would this ideally be placed and approximate size space to leave?

thanks

Michael

Jake, I'm delighted to see that this is coming together. I'm poised with wallet in hand, but have several unanswered questions related to my geographic location i'd like help with first. 1. It's cold, sometimes very cold here in Utah. When/may the tests you eluded to earlier be conducted and what ar...

Jake, sounds interesting indeed. I too have to be concerned about emissions testing in Utah. Stupid question #1: would the same engine with efi be more or less likely to pass emissions? Question #2: you list that this setup is for the stock engine. Would this same setup work for a larger engine with...

Can breakers just go bad? My #1 breaker won't reset, and this happened with it just sitting and with no electrical work on my part?

Is there any way to test them short of just replacing (ouch) them?

Michael

This time it worked! The battery disconnect is not fried, but something happened with the ground connection, causing an intermittant ground. I ran this test numerous times before and no improvement. Last night I ran it again after jiggling the ground wire and volla! They salt the roads here in Utah,...

some progress: I ran the tests outlined and for two of them; nothing. I ran a jumper cable from the - negative terminal of battery to the ground of the starter and volla! Lights worked, dash lights up. I tried the starter button and only got a click at the starter. I also noticed that when this negi...

Does this make sense, as I'm feeling like I'm chasing a ghost? Batteries have power Dash is dead, no lights or any sign of electrical life. Now the interesting part: I have power to the starter lug ONLY WHEN IT IS THE ONLY CONNECTION TO THE LUG! When I connect it with the other red wires, I have no ...

I have power at the batteries, and power at the starter stud. I also have power at the red wire going into the Molex connector (Molex looks fine, no corrosion or anything that looks melted or wrong). There is power at the ignition switch large red wire. Still no dash lights or start. Bad ignition sw...

Well, I tried both sets of suggestions and still no lights at dash or power to start. I jumped (bypassed) the battery cutoff switch and no improvement. I ran the voltage tests as suggested by lightningpinz and: -Voltage at batteries is 25.89 V -Positive lead of meter to + battery, negative to chassi...

No circuit breaker buttons are up, no dash lights, no power to start engine. It's as if batteries are missing, thats why I'm wondering if a relay, like a starting relay or something is fried.
Any ideas, thanks.

Oops,
I thought the power was off and I accidently grounded a wire at the starter. Predictable spark and pop and now, no dash lights or power.

Did I fry a relay or something and how to fix?

thanks, in advance

Anyone have a 24 v electric pump installed? If so, I'd like some specifics about a regulater if needed and some sort of safety shut off.

thanks
Michael

I know this has been covered, but now lost.
I'm considering installing an electric pump in hopes it will cure my stalling problem. Where should I take off for power, and do I need some sort of pressure regulator? It is a 24 v pump for a cucv truck.
Thanks, Michael