THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

The drums are clean - they were cleaned before the truck was left standing. I'll check the seals but the shaft turns by hand so can't be too stiff

Both discs are off, by the way. With a bit of silicone I think it will seal up fine but have to get the engine running first

I am surprised it held that well whilst being towed across rough concrete but maybe something was engaged elsewhere. I could turn the main shaft by hand once it was exposed (one wheel happened to be off the ground when I jacked the body up) so that's definitely free!

Well, it's obvious we're not dealing with a Land Rover here. 40 year old vehicle and the bolts all undid without too much effort (apart from the one holding the rear cone to the body - forgot/didn't know the plate it screwed into wasn't fixed and should have been held with a spanner - got it undone ...

Ah, I see, thanks! Might leave the pintle hook on (I've replaced mine with a swivelling NATO hitch) and hang it from the rear bumper to support the weight

Jim, not entirely sure what you mean by "pull tail cone in pieces" but I have the repair manual & instructions someone wrote elsewhere so sure I'll figure it out eventually!

Wise words, I haven't had the time to do much in the workshop recently anyway hence all the posts but I think you're right, tail cone off it is!

Thing is, it will need to be free at some stage. Will try the "turning the shaft with a crowbar" technique & see what happens

Well, after a lot of thumping I tried towing the beast forward using a Land Rover (the shame!). Still a 3-tonne paperweight so it's dismantlin' time, I fear. I'd have thought by tapping the actuator rod it might have moved but apparently not... Will try those other methods if all else fails but need...

Am I right in thinking that if the brake was freed I'd be able to turn one rear wheel if the other was on the floor? Would be an easy way of knowing it had popped free

Because I don't have any dollies and they're expensive to buy for one move. It's in a barn just not in the right place in the barn

Well, I've undone the linkage and walloped the tie rod (after loosening the nut) but can't move the vehicle on my own - need to get someone to try towing it a bit. Hoping I won't have to dismantle things. Looking at the repair manual has given me a good idea of how the brake works. How much movement...

OK, I'm back now. Before I start unbolting everything, is there a specific place it's best to thump wi' a bluddy great 'ammer? The propshaft (Cardon shaft) turns by hand so transfer box is in neutral so must be the E-brake as you call it. Might try putting some tension on by towing with another vehi...

Still locked up as I'm away on business!

Sorry, got carried away - I used to own a Land Rover

More walloping required, then!