THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

But wait :? The halfi does not have two brake circuits -- right? So if the master seal is leaky, bypassing internally, there's no secondary for any back pressure under foot. So if this is your problem, simply maintaining pressure on the pedal it should leak down to the floorboard then you know it's ...

One additional thought, you may have a leaking master cylinder seal. This can result in no loss in fluid but fluid bypassing the master and a resultant loss of force on the front slaves. This happened to me this past winter. It was a complete fail of the front brakes and not one drop of fluid was lo...

What's really going on is one of two issues, predominately a rich condition leading to unburnt fuel in the exhaust system. If Ox gets in the exhaust then the telltale signs of post ignition -- popping. Elimination of the Ox in the exhaust system with tighter exhaust plumbing may eliminate the sympto...

Might want to pull the drums off and give a close inspection of the shoes etc and a clean
up with Brake cleaner. Esp, if the braking was noticeably different before and after wheeling.
Eliminate the possibility of of a fluid leak or trail crud on the shoes

At altitude you will naturally run more rich due to lower Ox and vapor pressure. So your already running rich at 8,000'. Try using regular gas if your not already (lower octane). You may want to try increasing your advance a degree or two if you wheel mostly at altitude -- the burn in the chamber is...

That's acebee coming down my driveway, darn I have to get that repaved.

Puts the 712 in perspective Eh !

Assuming your vacuum gauge is calibrated in Inches of Mercury, at idle 800 -- 1,000 RPM should be about -17 to -20 InHG.
MAP readings are going to be strongly dependent upon load and RPM (and leaks).

Well I have to attest, acebee ain't kidding, or pulling your collective legs
His beast is real. Came down my driveway last Sunday, what a sight. I'm biting
my tongue of course. Good luck with those clues

Ya, RapidFix it actually a bit warm while curing the bonded seams due to chemical reaction.
I forgot to mention I used this on the mitered corners of the door rubbers as I didn't
want them to separate. I still used 3M "Yellow snot" as the adhesive to the door frame.

The biggest killer of some of these converters are the cooling fans. Just look at Texas710's PIX of the dust on that Sanel converter. If your converter requires a fan for cooling it is forcing that dirty air right into the fan bearings, some of these fans are open bearing and will eventually fail. I...

That's how I'd do it too, strip of rubber maybe even neoprene would do. Lace it around the two attachment pieces and overlap the rubber. Use a "welding" type adhesive such as RapidFix, bonds at the molecular level and will maintain "strechyness" at the bond. Don't get any of this...

Wouldn't miss it !

Ya man! Mums the word. TXT me and we can hook up.

I may be off in the weeds again on this guessing game

But if your looking for adapters I'd go to Motorsport Tech out of Nevada,
anything special talk to Lenny, he can do anything out of the ordinary.
http://www.motorsport-tech.com/

Send us a PIX for heavens sake

Hey SB, "What i would really appreciate is if you all could recommend any good wheel fabricators.." All depends upon what your looking for here. Are you asking for where to get wider wheels (rims) for your 712, e.g. 8" ? There may still be an option for that ala Beck in SoCal. He was ...