THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

What are K and M front spring lengths when new? I searched the forum but couldn't find the answer. If you were to replace the front saggy springs on a 710K...which ones would you use...diesel ones? I have an idea for a cheaper spring but I would like to know the spring rate/length of the stock one's...

That was my 1st guess. Check belt tension even if it's not squealing. Next I would blow some compressed air through and around the alt. just to make sure you don't have any funk stuck in-between the brushes causing issues w/ the contact surface.

Bleed the system a few times just to make sure...and it doesn't cost much if anything since you probably have fluid lay'n around already. It does sound like the fluid might be bypassing in the master from what you described. Start w/ the easiest(cheapest) and go backwards before you start tearing in...

I've never heard of a completely quiet one before.

When I first got mine it was leaking from there. I pulled it off and made a new gasket from a box of corn flakes and it has never leaked again. Simple R&R and refill the box.

I use mine instead of the "Dash" heater. It seems to heat alot better then the one in the front. I have left it running overnight a few times while I was camping in the back with no issues in terms of fuel or battery consumption in the morning. Insulating the inside of the Pinzy makes a hu...

Did you replace the rubber grommets that hold the reservoir? If you're lucky they won't leak but most of the time they don't like to be disturbed and once they have been then it becomes a constant seep that can be misleading as if the new master cylinder is leaking again. Keep an eye on it if you di...

The castor/camber is built into the system. All you need to do is set the toe and the steering wheel. You don't even have to use the string since you can't align the rear. Marking device(chalk) and a measuring tape and you'll get it better then any shop will.

You should have a warm engine on level ground when you check it. Not from cold to get an accurate idea. Basically fire it up and let it get warm then shut it off and let it sit a few minutes and then check it. When it's cold and you check it just tells you how much oil has drained completely back in...

The only thing you should be leaking from those gaskets should be oil coming up and out of the motor...and that's if the gaskets are poop. If you are leaking fuel out of those gaskets then you have internal pump issues. Fuel should not be anywhere near those gaskets. Either the diaphragm tore or may...

I'm in...I'm in...now gimmi a rib. See ya'll there!

Anyone else head'n up from San Clemente/SoCal?

EDZZ is on the mark. Have somebody reinforce and then hot-glue that thing. It'll be better then new.

A couple zip-ties would have got you home at least!

That's right! Somebody bent your junk. They should be straight "Bolts" as you call them. A little tip when you get your new tie-rod ends before you install them...drill a small hole on the top flat surface and tap it for a zert fitting so you can grease it and it will last 10x as long as t...