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Hi Folks,
I have had the Gear Reduction Starter from EI for a few years. I love it and to this point it has been great. Yesterday I was at my deer stand when the starter went out. The solenoid clicks and buzzes but no spin from the motor. So, my question is anyone have some tips on servicing this thing? I'm well versed in removal and all that. I think I replaced the original starter 4 times over the last dozen years or so. But time is of the essence since muzzle loader season opened today!

Thanks for your time. - Buzz

First thing I would do is call Scott at EI. They had it designed and built so he would be the best source for troubleshooting and repair suggestions.

I'd suggest checking these things in order (order based on ease of checking and likelihood of being an issue):

1. What is the battery voltage during the "solenoid clicks and buzzes but no spin from the motor"? Check this at the battery terminals directly. Less than 20 volts, you have battery problems.
2. Are the terminals tight at the starter (especially the large lead from the batteries)? Bad connections can seem like bad batteries.
3. Is there a voltage difference between the negative battery terminal and chassis ground (should be less than 1V during cranking)? If so, the battery disconnect or wiring is suspect.

If 1 - 3 are OK, then you likely have a problem with the starter itself:

4. Remove the starter, and remove the solenoid. Most have a copper washer that bridges between the heavy input lug and the motor connection itself; so when the solenoid pulls in it makes the high current connection to the starter motor. Check and clean the washer and the terminals that it touches.
5. Check the motor brushes themselves (if you are comfortable digging this deep into the motor). On the other hand, you don't have much to lose since the alternative is a new starter.

Best of luck.

Thanks Paul and Jim.

I will probably call EI Monday

On the batteries, there is the possibility they are the problem. These are Yellow Top Optimas I put in to support the 24 v winch I put on several years ago. I don't have my maintenance log here with me but they are probably pushing five years. I may pull them and take them to town tomorrow and have them tested. I don't have a voltmeter here.

Ill let you know what I find.

By the way, I had checked the terminals at the starter while I was in the woods. They seemed fine.

I just opened the battery box and looked, the batteries are marked 01/06!

My yellow-top Optimas of even newer vintage are currently (no pun intended) "tits up", as they say.

Buzz,

http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsea ... volt+meter

a wealth of meters. You don't have to get the most expensive but you should probably have one on hand.

Krick3tt,
Thanks. I have one, just not where I have the truck for hunting season...

No multimeter with the truck? Then turn on a light somewhere that you can see (like the map light over the glovebox). The light should stay no less than about 3/4ths as bright when cranking the engine. If the light dims significantly, or goes out completely, then you know that either the batteries or the wiring to the batteries are bad. Come to think of it, the dash lights should stay on (oil pressure, parking brake) during cranking and you can use them the same way.

Jim,
You are correct. The dash lights were going out when cranking. And the problem was one of the batteries was dead. Given the batteries lasted nine years I won't complain and the reputation of EI's starter remains unspoiled! I took the second battery out and it will serve as a trolling motor battery now. New yellow top batteries installed and she cranks perfectly and idles a bit better too.

Thanks for the help!

Not necessarily on topic but I find that the engine runs better when the petrol tank is more than 1/2 full, I try to keep it there.
I replaced the original starter with the GR starter and although the bowls on the carbs do get a bit dry after sitting it starts OK with a little choke.
Appreciate the knowledge about the battery issue.