Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
I've seen 8 ft-lb for the gear oil plugs, or tighten by feel, for the aluminum housings.
I haven't seen a torque value for the engine oil drain plug which is in a steel drain pan. What is the torque value for it? Didn't find it by searching and the manual torque spec page is unclear on this.
I haven't seen a torque value for the engine oil drain plug which is in a steel drain pan. What is the torque value for it? Didn't find it by searching and the manual torque spec page is unclear on this.
1971 Pinzgauer 710M, all stock including 245-16 Maloya tires, taken off and stored for show
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
With a copper washer the torque should be the same. The washer helps to cog the plug in place. If you have to reuse the washer heat it with a propane torch or even gas stove burner until red hot and then quench it in cold water. This will soften the work hardened copper and allow reuse. In fact it can be heated and quenched many times and only needs replacing when distorted or damaged.
Cheers, Clive
PS If the plug is seeping after it's first run following a change a very little bit more tightening should do the trick to crush the washer the little bit needed.
Cheers, Clive
PS If the plug is seeping after it's first run following a change a very little bit more tightening should do the trick to crush the washer the little bit needed.
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
Thanks, now if I could only get the old one out! Tried a little tapping, a little heat, and now some PB blasting to soak for a day!63rover wrote:With a copper washer the torque should be the same. The washer helps to cog the plug in place. If you have to reuse the washer heat it with a propane torch or even gas stove burner until red hot and then quench it in cold water. This will soften the work hardened copper and allow reuse. In fact it can be heated and quenched many times and only needs replacing when distorted or damaged.
Cheers, Clive
PS If the plug is seeping after it's first run following a change a very little bit more tightening should do the trick to crush the washer the little bit needed.
1971 Pinzgauer 710M, all stock including 245-16 Maloya tires, taken off and stored for show
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
- Jimm391730
- Posts: 1456
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 10:58 pm
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
Yeah, they tend to "stick". Use a good 10mm hex (I have a 10mm black impact socket from Harbor Freight) and as strong as I am I need a 18" breaker bar and sometimes even a piece of pipe for more leverage; and that is with "normal" snug torque that I used to put them back in place with the last time. If you are using the 6" long hex that came with the truck you will definitely need a pipe for more leverage.now if I could only get the old one out!
Jim M.
712W and 710M
712W and 710M
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
The breaker bar is a great idea bu don't just pull. Hit it with a hammer, moderate taps first, hopefully harder won't be necessary. Think of it as a manual impact wrench.
A good friend who is a woodworker has his own torque system, "monkey tight, chimp tight, orangutan tight and gorilla tight." Sound like more than a monkey got into tightening this one. It is a good system to adopt if you have youngster around when working on the truck. It is better to be heard complaining about the stupid monkey that got there before you as opposed to the f---- a----- we usually find has bugger things up.
Cheers, Clive
A good friend who is a woodworker has his own torque system, "monkey tight, chimp tight, orangutan tight and gorilla tight." Sound like more than a monkey got into tightening this one. It is a good system to adopt if you have youngster around when working on the truck. It is better to be heard complaining about the stupid monkey that got there before you as opposed to the f---- a----- we usually find has bugger things up.
Cheers, Clive
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
Thanks for the input. I soaked it with PB blaster for a couple of days, put in the 10mm hex socket and tapped it with a hammer, pulled pretty hard and heard the "crack" and it's out. Just after I had driven it for 15 minutes or so.
1971 Pinzgauer 710M, all stock including 245-16 Maloya tires, taken off and stored for show
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
- Jimm391730
- Posts: 1456
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 10:58 pm
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
I doubt the PB Blaster had much to do with it; the copper washer seals the gap very well, preventing oil leaking out which prevents the PB Blaster from getting in. The threads are on the other side of the washer, and most of the sealing washer's area are therefore protected from the PB Blaster. I suspect that the "crack" that we all hear is due to the seal of the washer, I get that crack EVERY time.I soaked it with PB blaster for a couple of days, put in the 10mm hex socket and tapped it with a hammer, pulled pretty hard and heard the "crack" and it's out.
Jim M.
712W and 710M
712W and 710M
- Hotzenplotz
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:07 am
- Location: Vienna, Austria
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
a quote from the Austrian Army repair manaul
Ablaßschraube festziehen bzw. mit 70 Nm prüfen.
Ablaßschraube festziehen bzw. mit 70 Nm prüfen.
Cheers
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
That makes sense for sure. Just nervous about rounding the hex plug and in no hurry so that's what I did. PB blaster makes sense on the other drain plugs where the copper washer is inside the threads.Jimm391730 wrote:I doubt the PB Blaster had much to do with it; the copper washer seals the gap very well, preventing oil leaking out which prevents the PB Blaster from getting in. The threads are on the other side of the washer, and most of the sealing washer's area are therefore protected from the PB Blaster. I suspect that the "crack" that we all hear is due to the seal of the washer, I get that crack EVERY time.I soaked it with PB blaster for a couple of days, put in the 10mm hex socket and tapped it with a hammer, pulled pretty hard and heard the "crack" and it's out.
1971 Pinzgauer 710M, all stock including 245-16 Maloya tires, taken off and stored for show
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
Well, I don't read the language, but I hand tightened the plug with an allen wrench and when I took my torque wrench set at 100 in-lbs (8 ft-lbs) (11 Nm) to it, the torque wrench clicked immediately. And it doesn't leak so I'm happy!Hotzenplotz wrote:a quote from the Austrian Army repair manaul
Ablaßschraube festziehen bzw. mit 70 Nm prüfen.
1971 Pinzgauer 710M, all stock including 245-16 Maloya tires, taken off and stored for show
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
BFG MT KM2 265/75R16's on Black SAV replacement rims on now
- Jimm391730
- Posts: 1456
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 10:58 pm
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
Re: Engine Oil Drain Plug Torque Value
I also am lacking in linguistic skills so... I find Google translate very useful along with online converters.
https://translate.google.com/#auto/en/A ... %C3%BCfen.
http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/torque/
https://translate.google.com/#auto/en/A ... %C3%BCfen.
http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/torque/
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.