Misc Carbs questions
Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 12:04 am
Found out my rear carb was had loose base screws so I decided to attempt a rebuild/repair since the pinz came with the kit. But had a few questions.
1. Have been looking to figure out what is the correct float height. This is what I found front and rear., same height. I believe the manual mentions 16 mm +/- 1mm. So I think this level is too low. The pictures I have found about this and the one included in the gauage tool, I have a hard time telling where the fuel level is at. It has a 1mm shim for the float needle, should I go 0.5mm or no shim at all? Haven't measured it but that metal piece height corresponds to 16mm I take it? 2. My float looks to be in decent condition but I bought a couple anyway before disassembly just in case since they don't seem to be too expensive. The new ones are one piece but my current one, the floats moves independently of each other. Seems if one looses buoyancy, it will not be affected too much. Seems like a very interesting design, wondering why the new ones are one piece.
2. Jim L's instructions mentioned two of the base screws are shouldered and they are to be placed essentially on the diagonals. All 8 of my base screws are the same. The front carb screws looks good, but the rears could/should be replaced. EI has the screws but not shouldered, just partially threaded and with a hex socket head. SA has shouldered screws. In both EI and SA website, the parts diagram shows same screws and same part #, but I found on this thread: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=11736&p=87663&hili ... rew#p87663; the only diagram showing two different base screws with two different part #s. Anyone know why that is?
BTW: had the chance to meet with Jim L in real life, not only super helpful with his repair write up but also super helpful and gracious with teaching and answering questions about the Pinz. Stand up guy. Main reason I decided to tackle this is that if I screw it up, I will just send it to him.
3. Is it ok to submerge the whole throttle body into carb chem dip for cleaning? I am aware there are throttle shaft seals, which I was planning to replace also, but I do not want to remove the throttle plate. Those seals are expensive. From the way it looks, it seems there is only one way to install it, anyone know which way that is?
4. After following Jim L's instructions, there are still some screws left in the carbs. These can be left while submerged in the carb chem dip also?
5. One shut off selenoid did not work. Are these worth replacing? I read they just helped shut the engine off because pinz tend to run rich.
6. Read many recommend sanding the mating surfaces to take out warp to allow better seal vs using 2 gaskets as for the cab cover. Any down side to doing both or even just using two gaskets?
7. Took out the plugs to check them out. #2 seems lean, the others seems ok to me, but maybe a little soot/rich? Hoping more experience eye can let me know what they think. Doesn;t make sense to me though as I would anticipate #3 and 4 to be the lean one given those were the ones with loose carbs.
Thanks in advance.
Kelvin
1. Have been looking to figure out what is the correct float height. This is what I found front and rear., same height. I believe the manual mentions 16 mm +/- 1mm. So I think this level is too low. The pictures I have found about this and the one included in the gauage tool, I have a hard time telling where the fuel level is at. It has a 1mm shim for the float needle, should I go 0.5mm or no shim at all? Haven't measured it but that metal piece height corresponds to 16mm I take it? 2. My float looks to be in decent condition but I bought a couple anyway before disassembly just in case since they don't seem to be too expensive. The new ones are one piece but my current one, the floats moves independently of each other. Seems if one looses buoyancy, it will not be affected too much. Seems like a very interesting design, wondering why the new ones are one piece.
2. Jim L's instructions mentioned two of the base screws are shouldered and they are to be placed essentially on the diagonals. All 8 of my base screws are the same. The front carb screws looks good, but the rears could/should be replaced. EI has the screws but not shouldered, just partially threaded and with a hex socket head. SA has shouldered screws. In both EI and SA website, the parts diagram shows same screws and same part #, but I found on this thread: viewtopic.php?f=12&t=11736&p=87663&hili ... rew#p87663; the only diagram showing two different base screws with two different part #s. Anyone know why that is?
BTW: had the chance to meet with Jim L in real life, not only super helpful with his repair write up but also super helpful and gracious with teaching and answering questions about the Pinz. Stand up guy. Main reason I decided to tackle this is that if I screw it up, I will just send it to him.
3. Is it ok to submerge the whole throttle body into carb chem dip for cleaning? I am aware there are throttle shaft seals, which I was planning to replace also, but I do not want to remove the throttle plate. Those seals are expensive. From the way it looks, it seems there is only one way to install it, anyone know which way that is?
4. After following Jim L's instructions, there are still some screws left in the carbs. These can be left while submerged in the carb chem dip also?
5. One shut off selenoid did not work. Are these worth replacing? I read they just helped shut the engine off because pinz tend to run rich.
6. Read many recommend sanding the mating surfaces to take out warp to allow better seal vs using 2 gaskets as for the cab cover. Any down side to doing both or even just using two gaskets?
7. Took out the plugs to check them out. #2 seems lean, the others seems ok to me, but maybe a little soot/rich? Hoping more experience eye can let me know what they think. Doesn;t make sense to me though as I would anticipate #3 and 4 to be the lean one given those were the ones with loose carbs.
Thanks in advance.
Kelvin