Starter sometimes fails to engage

[rmel]

Here's what mine looks like. Almost looks like your motor and
intermediate housing is "clocked" out of position by 60 degrees?

IMG_3097.jpg (716.29 KiB) Viewed 785 times

[eric1355]

hi

ecrous de 10mm head 14mm

https://www.rawmotorsports.net/fr/piece ... 14-29.html
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/fr/prod ... e_87261500



Eric

[ChickenPinz]

First, it turns out the starter was mis-assembled from Scott's factory, and required partial disassembly and re-clocking. Required an impact wrench to loosen the two bolts that secure the mounting flange.

Two issues remain, one small one bigger.

Small issue: The starter motor compresses the sound-deadening material. My fear is it'll rub through. Did others who use this starter also find that the motor is tight against the sidewall insulation?

Bigger issue: The upper ear of the mounting flange won't clear the keeper bracket that goes on top, across the top, of the rubber mount. Scott says that happens, and if it does one needs to loosen the keeper and move it. Well, I've loosened the inner upper bolt (socket head), and the bracket is still tight.
Any ideas on what else holds it in place? I've given it a few solid taps, and it's not moving.

Collision at the top of the ear

ear.PNG (2 MiB) Viewed 530 times

This is the bracket that won't move. The upper right bolt is loose.

top bracket.PNG (1.27 MiB) Viewed 530 times

See compression of sidewall insulation

sidewall.PNG (1.85 MiB) Viewed 530 times

[rmel]

The spacing between my gear reduction starter to the chassis sidewall is close but there's a wee bit of clearance.

WRT to the mounting, there are 4 bolts that hold the Starter Rubber mount and 2 that retain the "Nut plate".
My suggestion is to remove all these components, clean, and inspect for some possible debris. With all four bolts
removed that mount should come off easily unless it has taken a bond to the surface and just needs chisel whack
to release it.

Frankly, that interference looks in the neighborhood of about 2mm or so which seems a bit much for clearance
movement to accommodate. But a disassembly and clean is probably worth a try.

[whitesik]

I bought one of these starters based on rave reviews with the thought that I would install it when the need arose or if I did not have anything else to do (like that is going to happen). And I did not know how long the supply would last. At any rate, it is sitting on the shelf. Now I am concerned about problems when I do get ready to install it and no future support. Are these problems common?

[ChickenPinz]

The starter is in now, and has successfully completed three starts. Subjectively, I'd say it spins about the same speed as the original, but with the expected additional gear noise that comes standard with gear-reduction starters. The EI starter is much lighter than OEM.

My hints for others doing an EI replacement of the OEM starter (mine was first gen). I'm sure everyone will have different advice, but this is my take on it:
- Disconnect the battery first. Undo the jumpber between the front and rear battery as a convenient method.
- You can remove the clutch slave cylinder and oil filter, but I never felt they were in my way. Just the fuel filter and air filter were enough.
- You will need to remove the dipstick. Drop a 3/8in bolt in the crankcase hole to protect from debris while it's out.
- The oil pressure sender will be frequently in your way. Be nice around it, or remove it during the job. Your call.

- A 19mm crow's foot wrench on a 3/8in drive will work well to remove the top starter bolt. The bottom one is accessible with a box-end wrench.
- Long 3/8in extensions and a u-joint can help on this project. A u-joint 19mm socket is nice, too.

- After removing the starter, loosen and remove the right side socket-head (6mm hex) bolt securing the safety bracket over the top of the rubber sandwich mount.
- Loosen, but don't remove, the left-side bolt from the transmission side that secures the other side of the safety bracket. The bracket will now be loose.
- I was able to just squeeze the EI starter in against that safety bracket, and restart the socket head bolt threads. It's a dead fit, so you may need to remove that bracket and machine some material off on yours to clear the EI's mounting flange which sticks out more than the OEM version.

- The EI starter may fit tight against the engine compartment sound-deadening material.
- I had no issue putting all three ring-connectors over the lug on the starter. Just get them positioned right in the protective boot first.

While you're in there, I'd *consider* the following additional parts for replacement:
- Protective rubber boot over the starter wires that covers the lug (EI 7001850391)
- O-ring on the crankcase that seals the dipstick tube
- I put just a dab of lithium grease on the flywheel teeth -- some say run it dry. If you add grease, use sparingly.