Muffler questions
Muffler questions
My 712's muffler has given up the ghost and I need a new muffler. Scott is out of the muffler business. Talked to him today and he mentioned mufflers from an older model Mercedes 220 or 280 S. Okay, query Mercedes mufflers and the pics I find show only one inlet.
What's the deal? Do I have to have 2 inlets? I'm not understanding something here. I am worried that just taking it to the local muffler shop will result in something that don't quite work as it ought to.
Does anyone have a specific make and muffler that they know fits, works, and doesn't screw up ground clearence?
Scott, if you are reading this it's not that I doubt you or anything like that, I don't want to order something and go through the hassels of returning it etc. It needs to be right from the git-go. My lack of faith is in the local shop.
Andy
What's the deal? Do I have to have 2 inlets? I'm not understanding something here. I am worried that just taking it to the local muffler shop will result in something that don't quite work as it ought to.
Does anyone have a specific make and muffler that they know fits, works, and doesn't screw up ground clearence?
Scott, if you are reading this it's not that I doubt you or anything like that, I don't want to order something and go through the hassels of returning it etc. It needs to be right from the git-go. My lack of faith is in the local shop.
Andy
I think this may answer some of your questions: http://www.sdp-pinzgauer.org/html/muffl ... ement.html
Hope this helps,
Paul
Hope this helps,
Paul
Paul C.
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'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
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'73 Swiss 710M
'89 Puch 230GE
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muffler
Andy. We do a stainless steel direct replacement for £375.00 GBP, however I don't know if the exchange rate and shipping cost from the UK would make it too expensive.
pcolette...I looked at that a couple of weeks ago and never snapped on them cutting off the flange. That helps a lot.
pinmeister....no offense, but I don't think unless I strike completely out that with the exchange rate and shipping that I'll be ordering from you. However, I appreciate the offer. I think by the time I got done paying for your model I could get one from SAV at about the same price or less. Thanks though, and I will try to keep your business in mind.
Andy
pinmeister....no offense, but I don't think unless I strike completely out that with the exchange rate and shipping that I'll be ordering from you. However, I appreciate the offer. I think by the time I got done paying for your model I could get one from SAV at about the same price or less. Thanks though, and I will try to keep your business in mind.
Andy
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muffler
I thought that might be the case, but allways happy to try and help if I can.
I'd recommend getting Scott's kit if it's still available. If not, cut the flange, and there is a mercedes sedan muffler that fit's the flange. The exact model is somewhere in the yahoo archives, and I found mine locally for $35 or so.Andy wrote:I looked at that a couple of weeks ago and never snapped on them cutting off the flange. That helps a lot.
Then have a muffler shop fabricate the tail pipe similar to the one shown in Scott's photo's. Cost me $100. If I had it to do again, I'd extend the tail pipe out another 5-6" to get it further in the airstream. I put a cheap tailpipe extension on it and it helps quite a bit.
I did not use a resonator, and it's fine. I also found mounting locations for the tail pipe that used existing bolt/holes.
You have to watch the length on the inlet pipes. I should have cut mine an inch or two. Worked out, but made bends in the back harder.
Since then I know of a couple others done like mine locally, and it works great. I think I posted some photo's a while back in the yahoo archive.
That said, if I could have bought Scott's kit at the time, I would have.
Have fun,
Alan
Scott still sells lots of stuff for mufflers, but no mufflers. If that were the case then I'd have just order the whole shebang from him. I'm just not real sure how good the guy at the local muffler shop will be with something as different as a Pinz. I will try to get the muffler first and see what the muffler guy has to say. Then if he is going to need parts, I can pay extra to Scott for expedited shipping.
I will have him extend the tailpipe, with an appropriate bend so it doesn't melt my mudflap. I rarely have them down.
Hopefully, I will have nothing to report except praise for the local muffler guy. I'm a pessimist though. But, I'll let ya know.
Thanks.
I will have him extend the tailpipe, with an appropriate bend so it doesn't melt my mudflap. I rarely have them down.
Hopefully, I will have nothing to report except praise for the local muffler guy. I'm a pessimist though. But, I'll let ya know.
Thanks.
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- Location: Golden Colorado USA
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Andy
This is a no brianer for an exhaust muffler shop!
The fat "el gordo" std muffler has never been popular with the Colorado off-road crowd. Touches down on rocks etc.
Hence a long time ago we did the change out using the Honda style flex connectors (went on Evan Hillman's rig even before he bought it six/seven years ago.) And that was done at least a year prior to that date!
Then the "Turbo" Slim Line performance muffler was "introduced to us by an old zorst guy friend of mine called Ralph from Rocky Mountain Muffler and since he is/was a wizz with tubing he bent us up a complete tail pipe to come out by the back of the rear light plate.
Of course that was then this is now.
Almost everyone has copied the plot which is ok, but if you need the materiale for a conversion we have it all in stock. Why zorst stuff?
Simple I just got fed up with bad welding of seams by contractors so we do it in house.
Let me know what you want and I can supply it complete with a piccy so that a decent zorst shop down by you can scorch it all together.
Cheers Dennis
PS-- contrary to popular souces we are still fixin' Pinzies every week and of course busting some up to make more space on the Colorado trail for Landrovers
D
This is a no brianer for an exhaust muffler shop!
The fat "el gordo" std muffler has never been popular with the Colorado off-road crowd. Touches down on rocks etc.
Hence a long time ago we did the change out using the Honda style flex connectors (went on Evan Hillman's rig even before he bought it six/seven years ago.) And that was done at least a year prior to that date!
Then the "Turbo" Slim Line performance muffler was "introduced to us by an old zorst guy friend of mine called Ralph from Rocky Mountain Muffler and since he is/was a wizz with tubing he bent us up a complete tail pipe to come out by the back of the rear light plate.
Of course that was then this is now.
Almost everyone has copied the plot which is ok, but if you need the materiale for a conversion we have it all in stock. Why zorst stuff?
Simple I just got fed up with bad welding of seams by contractors so we do it in house.
Let me know what you want and I can supply it complete with a piccy so that a decent zorst shop down by you can scorch it all together.
Cheers Dennis
PS-- contrary to popular souces we are still fixin' Pinzies every week and of course busting some up to make more space on the Colorado trail for Landrovers
D
OOOps no customer bashing now
Hey! Welcome! Okay, I'm more than interested. I think the muffler guy can at least weld and bend pipe. Have no idea what a zorst is. He might. But this is still the frontier and the muffler dude is 30 miles away. I suppose if zorst is a Midas or Minecke type place I could drive it to San Antonio.
Thank you,
Cheers
Andy
Thank you,
Cheers
Andy
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If Dennis or Scott have the parts I'd get them from them.
If not, these photo's may be useful in seeing how it can be done:
Inlet detail, I'd make this about an inch shorter
Outlet detail, tough bend but doable. Easier if you have another inch
Up & over the shock mount. The lighter color is just mud. I see no heat transfer, the pipe is pretty cool by this point
Make the tail pipe 4-5 inches longer. Or even more, and trim back to suit, it will reduce exhaust getting sucked in the back.
have fun,
Alan
If not, these photo's may be useful in seeing how it can be done:
Inlet detail, I'd make this about an inch shorter
Outlet detail, tough bend but doable. Easier if you have another inch
Up & over the shock mount. The lighter color is just mud. I see no heat transfer, the pipe is pretty cool by this point
Make the tail pipe 4-5 inches longer. Or even more, and trim back to suit, it will reduce exhaust getting sucked in the back.
have fun,
Alan
Alan, pictures are always worth a thousand words. If you don't mind, I'll print them out and take them to the guy at the muffler shop. I didn't get the opportunity to call Dennis today, but I will try him early tomorrow and see what he has. Otherwise, we'll just have to see if the shop has something off the shelf that well fill the bill.
I got another tip from a friend in Arizona on what has been done out there, that might work.
Thank you for the reply and the pics.
Andy
I got another tip from a friend in Arizona on what has been done out there, that might work.
Thank you for the reply and the pics.
Andy
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Guys
I have seen many a commendable exhaust conversion but the biggest underlying fault is lateral stability. (often overlooked)
If you look at the std Steyr muffler (silencer) you will observe two strip metal hangers supporting the system aft of the muffler (silencer) carcass.
This prevents the heavy system from flapping about in the wind stressing the slip or flexible couplings at the headers (downpipes); Not to mention the heater hoses connected to the HE unit in line with the muffler! These hoses as many of you know sheer off for at the slightest provocation!
Sure alot of "zorst shops" use the tail pipe mount to hold the system in place by a std automotive aftermarket hanger. This is fine for a Chev and the like, but the system needs a more rigid set up like a LR "pigs nose" support at the muffler AND the tail pipe set in a fashion to support the system correctly to prevent premature failure in the event the tail pipe support lets go over time.
I have mused about this for some time after having seen many a system hanging off after a worthy modification.
Cheers Dennis
I have seen many a commendable exhaust conversion but the biggest underlying fault is lateral stability. (often overlooked)
If you look at the std Steyr muffler (silencer) you will observe two strip metal hangers supporting the system aft of the muffler (silencer) carcass.
This prevents the heavy system from flapping about in the wind stressing the slip or flexible couplings at the headers (downpipes); Not to mention the heater hoses connected to the HE unit in line with the muffler! These hoses as many of you know sheer off for at the slightest provocation!
Sure alot of "zorst shops" use the tail pipe mount to hold the system in place by a std automotive aftermarket hanger. This is fine for a Chev and the like, but the system needs a more rigid set up like a LR "pigs nose" support at the muffler AND the tail pipe set in a fashion to support the system correctly to prevent premature failure in the event the tail pipe support lets go over time.
I have mused about this for some time after having seen many a system hanging off after a worthy modification.
Cheers Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now