THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Hi all! Sorry to beat this topic to death, but I am still not clear about the "BEST" fluids for the 710. I think I have read most of the posts on this, forgive me (and point me to it) if this is redundant.

1) What is the best engine oil for the 710K? I am most interested in synthetic or semi-synthetic. Yes I read that post.
a) If something leaks, I will tend to blame it on the seal and fix it, rather than blame the oil. (however, I also don't necessarily want to start looking for trouble, either).
b) In general I am a believer that synthetics are superior for engine protection, especially cold starts and temp variation in air cooled motors. I am new to the Pinzgauer however, so I will not automatically presume this.
c) ZDDP Content: From my experience with Air Cooled VWs which utilize a flat-tappet design, I use Brad Penn semisynthetic with a mix of 10W30 and 20W50. As most of you probably know newer oils have inadequate ZDDP (zinc & phosphorus), needed for the high forces incurred on the rubbing surfaces with flat tappet lifter designs. ZDDP has been significantly reduced in modern oils as required to preserve cat converter operation & meet emissions standards (which doesn't help you if you have no cat). I think the Pinz is a flat tappet setup as well (please correct me if wrong), and hence this ZDDP concern probably applies, especially since the motor was designed at a time when oil had higher ZDDP.
I want the best fluids in the truck, can someone suggest the motor oil that definatively suits this? I am thinking about running the Brad Penn in the Pinz, any comments?

2) What is the best gear oil for each of the respective areas?
Some folks were suggesting red line synthetic heavy duty, and there is a discussion about GL4& GL5. Jim noted everything uses 90wt GL5 except transmission which uses GL4 (which from reading posts I presume is due to possibility of brass parts depending on the year, with GL5 potentially harming the brass).
What is the best gear oil, period, for the pinzgauer gearboxes and transmission? Jim- would you recommend a synthetic if one didn't mind paying a bit more for better lubes, or does your statement stand regardless of this? Anyone else?

3) What is the best oil filter? Is the Mann W 940/29 considered to be as good as anything else out there?

Thanks in advance for your input! I like to geek out on this stuff and "do things right"
Kevin.

Diesel oil for ZDDP concerns. I usually have a bit left from my powerstroke oil changes.

Regardless of which engine oil you go with, keep it at about half full on the dipstick. For some reason, all of my Pinzgauers run better in the mid-range than they do at the almost full mark.

I have been very happy using the following;

1. Engine Oil - Swepco 306 Supreme Engine Oil. 15W40 for cold weather (32 F or below, 90 F or below), 20W50 for hot weather (above 32, above 90).

2. Portal wheel drive - Swepco 210 or 212 (with moly) 80/140. I found that this did quiet the portal spur gears a noticeable amount.

3. Tcase and Diffs - Swepco 201, 80/90

4. Transmission - Any Quality GL-4, 80-90

I change engine oil annually, gearboxes at 5000 miles.

Yes it is pricey! Protecting my engine is worth it.

I'm running a 2.7 engine in my 712 with the 710 Tcase. I spend a lot of time on the road and also in the Sierra Nevada foothills, lots of ups and downs with loads up to 3000 lbs.

Seems to work for me!

Ok thanks for the input!

Be sure to carry extra spark plugs if you go with synthetic oil as it will foul the plugs.
These engines by design (air cooled, no valve seals)burn oil, synth oil does not burn, it fouls the plugs.
Been there done that, waste of money

Jim LaGuardia wrote: These engines by design (air cooled, no valve seals)burn oil,

Thanks for that gem Jim! I didn't know there were no valve seals.

Some engines have them, others don't. Some intake guides are machined for them while others are not. I put them on all heads when rebuilding.

Thanks Jim, good to know.
Jim - Would love to know, what is your take on ZDDP and the Pinzgauer motor? I am just kind of curious about this issue. I have heard of a few air cooled VW's and other flat tappet designs failing prematurely after rebuild with newer motor oils (lower Zinc /Phosphorus oils). Have you seen any of this type of Camshaft failure due to premature wear?
Cheers
Kevin

try Brad Penn SAE 30 break in oil. Full of the stuff the pinz likes and the EPA is trying to remove.

To finish what I started...
I ended up using Joe Gibbs DT50 synthetic high zinc air-cooled engine 15W50 engine oil, Mann W940/29 filter, Redline MT90 GL4 75w90 in transmission, Redline heavy shockproof gear oil 75w250 elsewhere.

I have been very happy using the following;

1. Engine Oil - Swepco 306 Supreme Engine Oil. 15W40 for cold weather (32 F or below, 90 F or below), 20W50 for hot weather (above 32, above 90).

2. Portal wheel drive - Swepco 210 or 212 (with moly) 80/140. I found that this did quiet the portal spur gears a noticeable amount.

3. Tcase and Diffs - Swepco 201, 80/90

4. Transmission - Any Quality GL-4, 80-90

I change engine oil annually, gearboxes at 5000 miles.

Yes it is pricey! Protecting my engine is worth it.

I'm running a 2.7 engine in my 712 with the 710 Tcase. I spend a lot of time on the road and also in the Sierra Nevada foothills, lots of ups and downs with loads up to 3000 lbs.

Seems to work for me!

you dont want to use gl-4 oil if you replaced all the seals with new moder seals it is ok to use it , other way the gl4 has cemicals what will eat old seals and you will get leaks
you need to use SAE 90 GL1 gear oil and for engine 15-40 heavy duty oil what is made for diesel engines
it is hard to find SAE90 gl1 but i got it from lockal oil sealer for 44 $ for 5 gal. bucekt

you dont want to use gl-4 oil if you replaced all the seals with new moder seals it is ok to use it , other way the gl4 has cemicals what will eat old seals and you will get leaks
you need to use SAE 90 GL1 gear oil

After using Redline MT90 or Amsoil GL4 for 15 years in any old German gearboxes/diffs I have had, I can confidently say that its the best possible oil you can get for them and I have never seen any seals eaten or leaks unless they were already there.

The weight and specs I got came from Redline chemical engineers after consulting with them about recommendations for these trucks.

Wondering if anyone out there uses BG products, I have a good dealer that I can get some really good deals with.

On a somewhat related note, I got my cylinders rebored about four years ago, and the machine shop told me to run 10/30 after break-in. I've put about 1000 km on the engine since then. Any reason to change to a heavier grade oil now or stick with the 10/30?