Pinzi SSI

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lifefloat
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by lifefloat » Mon Apr 20, 2020 5:41 pm

I wish that my 1.0 could morph into a 3.0 just by tapping my heels together

pinzinator
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Location: Indio, California

Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by pinzinator » Mon Apr 20, 2020 7:15 pm

I can convert a 1.0 to a 2.0 by adding a voltage converter. Performance is the same whether it is 1.0, 2.0, or 3.0. The converter uses 24 volts to run the system instead of tapping one battery for 12 volts, and adds an electrical firewall to protect the module.

I charge a flat rate of $225 to do the conversion, ready to install. All I need is the module sent to me to re-wire it. PM for details.

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MACH
Mexico
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Location: San Luis Potosi

Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by MACH » Tue Apr 21, 2020 6:05 pm

GREAT PRODUCT , GREAT SERVICE , I UPGRADED
TO PINZSSI 2 AND I THINK IT IS WORTH IT

newtopinz
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by newtopinz » Tue Apr 21, 2020 11:19 pm

Is there a different spark plug gap for SSI System? Mine came with one, installed in 2015. Unsure which version. When I checked the gaps they were 0.035. Manual I believe mentioned 0.032.

pinzinator
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by pinzinator » Wed Apr 22, 2020 6:20 am

I test each system with a gap of .045 with no problem. .032 or .035 makes no difference. 2 plugs are jumped at the same time since it is a waste spark design, so the total gap would be .064-.070.

whitesik
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by whitesik » Wed Apr 22, 2020 12:02 pm

I have the PinzSSI 2.0. Can one get only the 3.0 "distributor" module that is metal and allows easier timing change as you reported?
75 Swiss 710K
Not so new owner but still a novice

pinzinator
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by pinzinator » Wed Apr 22, 2020 12:43 pm

It is the plate that the module mounts to that allows this minor adjustment, not the module itself. I will check to see if the 2.0 module is compatible with this plate, that would be more practical as the cost would be significantly less.
The base plate allows about 5 degrees adjustment advance or retard, assuming it is centered. 10 degrees total at the module, 20 degrees at the crank. This makes it easier to get the final few degrees dialed in, but keep in mind that the 2.0 can also be set just as precisely. It just takes longer unless you get lucky. It's like any old 60s American car, sometimes you get the timing right the first shot.
With the 3.0, timing is set by rotating the disc to get it close, the second limited plate adjustment is a finer setting. The pinch clamp is tightened before setting the timing, as rotating the shaft assembly is not needed.
Think of it as being able to rotate the points plate to set timing in an old car, not the entire distributor.

pinzinator
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by pinzinator » Mon May 18, 2020 9:40 am

I have come up with a conclusion for those of you with PinzSSI 2.0 who want to know if the 3.0 version is compatible in case you wanted the option to get the parts that make setting timing easier.

I installed a 3.0 over the weekend (the date stamp is incorrect) using a new pinch clamp that works perfectly with the PinzSSI or the OEM Bosch distributor shaft. This part makes it much easier to set timing by rotating the distributor by hand, much like how we set timing in the 60s and 70s. With this clamp I didn't even bother using the screw clamps on the 3.0 to set the timing, it was that easy. The clamp that came with the Pinzgauer from the factory is usually in bad shape by now and is difficult to tighten at best.

Google this part "Distributor Hold Clamp for 235-261 Chevy Elect Distributor" and select Speedway Motors, as they have the best price. This clamp installs like it was custom made for the Pinzgauer. I recommend that everyone orders and installs this clamp. The price is quite reasonable, too!
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pinzinator
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PinzSSI 2.0 and earlier dust problem

Post by pinzinator » Sat Jul 11, 2020 1:38 pm

I have had 2 Pinzgauer owners encounter running problems recently due to dust getting into the module and partially blocking the optical pickup. Symptoms of this are rough running to the engine stopping. There is an easy fix and this is easy to prevent.
The module and shaft have to be removed as a unit. On the bottom of the module base plate are 3 small holes that vent into the interior of the module, the rest are blocked by either the module itself or the two mounting screws.
Take a dab of silicon sealer and plug 2 of the holes as shown in the photo. In the third hole, insert a short piece of .2" (5.4mm) rubber tubing, which is available at auto parts stores and is used for windshield washers (give credit to Ron for suggesting this). Route the tube off to the side and out of the way, it doesn't have to be very long. An option is to silicone all 3 holes, but installing the tube will allow moisture to vent out.
Remove the disc and thoroughly clean it. Then take a Q-Tip with alcohol and clean the optical pickup. Re-install the disc and re-set the timing.

The vast majority of PinzSSI ignitions will never have a problem with dust, but this preventative procedure is recommended anyway as a precaution. I will post a similar procedure for the 3.0 ignitions and email it to anyone who has already purchased one.
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rmel
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by rmel » Sat Jul 11, 2020 3:01 pm

Thanks for posting this Rick, yup that be yours truly running into this problem :wink:

Up at Poker Flats this week, these trails are very dusty. Coming out of the flats
I was on a forest road and she suddenly pooped out. Started debugging looking
at the vital signs; electric Fuel pump good, fuel flowing in carbs, good healthy
spark. Then decided to check the timing. Pulling the cap off I was amazed at
the amount of dust build up. Cleaned as best as I could W/O removing the disk,
started right up. In retrospect the problem is now obvious but it sure wasn't at
the time.

Two symptoms I noticed, fails to run or runs poorly. If it fails to run that's a sign
that TDC is not detected and there will be no signal to fire the coils. Running poorly
is due to not being able to reliably calculate the engine RPM so you get little to no
advance and will have very poor performance. I also noticed a lot of post-fire in
the exhaust going down steep grades. All makes sense now :P

By the time we exited the area I decided to leave my 712 at a friends in Nevada City
as it was getting very late, it was not running well again and I was not 100% sure of
the problem. Monday I'll jump on Amtrac and bail her out. I have been promising
to look at my buddies Jeep X-case linkage so now he has my baby as hostage so I'll
be looking at that too :D
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712M

Driver: Ron // KO0Q

pinzinator
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by pinzinator » Sat Jul 11, 2020 4:13 pm

The disc takes 2 readings continuously. The first is TDC every 720 degrees of crankshaft revolution (or whatever you set the timing at in relation to the notch in the pulley). The other reading is taken with the 96 slots cut into the disc, which measure engine RPM, and the rate of acceleration and deceleration. With this information the CPU sets the timing. This is quite simple, electronically.
There are two optical windows in the module, one reads TDC and the other reads RPM. If either one becomes blocked, the CPU gets confused and shuts down as programmed, normally within 5 seconds. Under normal driving conditions this would be a rare occurrence, but every PinzSSI owner needs to know about this. A simple blast of compressed air could solve the problem for a long time, but preventing dust makes more sense.
The vents are intended to vent moisture, not heat. If all vents are blocked off there may never be a problem, but if your're in Florida or Louisiana, etc., I would recommend the vent tube to be sure. In those climates moisture is more of a problem than dust.
However, I have never heard of a failure due to moisture anywhere.

ChickenPinz
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by ChickenPinz » Sat Jul 11, 2020 6:01 pm

Sounds like the right answer is a simple Goretex (or equiv.) patch over the holes. Keeps out water & dust, but passes water vapor. Used in electronics all the time.
710K

pinzinator
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by pinzinator » Sat Jul 11, 2020 6:24 pm

I know nothing about Goretex, but the way you describe it, that would be a great solution.

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rmel
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by rmel » Sat Jul 11, 2020 7:02 pm

In principle yes, in practice no. One would be far better off with a vent hose than
a membrane. Trail dust is nasty stuff, add a little moisture and it binds like
concrete, covering the holes with Goretex will likely cake up creating a barrier.
Some of the venting is from the engine side with Oil vapors, I could see evidence
of heavy caked-on debris around the mounting posts on the insides of the
distributor housing perhaps due to some moisture or fumes I don't know but the
safest approach is a hose.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712M

Driver: Ron // KO0Q

ChickenPinz
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Re: Pinzi SSI

Post by ChickenPinz » Sat Jul 11, 2020 7:32 pm

@rmel: Is your belief that the area where the optical sensors live is positively pressurized due to leaking crankcase pressure, and thus a sufficiently long hose will prevent ingress of dust? Or do you think it's neutral pressure?

Here's an interesting thread on Toyota solutions to distributor venting: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/distri ... ue.639725/

My sense is to follow whatever venting strategies have been proven to work, thus leveraging the work of others where possible. I'm not saying the Toyota solution is best for this application, but surely there are others we can look to for emulation on the Pinz SSI solution.
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