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Slit boots rotting

Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2016 10:44 am
by Brickren
I replaced the OEM boots with split boots last winter (8 months). I went off reading last weekend. Before I went, I did a pre maintenance check and noticed that I was getting dry rot in the creases. I was cleaning the truck last weekend and checking oil levels I happen to notice the split boots have rotted through. Is this all the life I can expect out of a split boots? I'm apprehensive about doing an axle separation. I'm worried I won't be able to get it back together. EI video showing how to do it is very good, except I don't see how they put it back together.

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2016 11:13 am
by pcolette
There are a few different split boots out there of varying quality. I used some from SAV or EI (can't remember which) over 7 years ago and they are still going strong. No rot or splitting.

I once used some cheaper ones that I got off an ebay vendor and they started to go bad after 12 months. My guess is that you get what you pay for.

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2016 1:41 pm
by undysworld
Ditto here. Mine are all quite a few years old and are in good condition. They were from SAV.

Unless you're pulling the wheel drive off the axle anyway, I'd use a split boot.

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Sat Sep 17, 2016 2:52 pm
by audiocontr
the ebay versions are horrible and will cause this. Get the Expedition Import quality

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 2:45 pm
by ExpeditionImports
Take 10-15 minutes and peak under your truck. Check your shock bolts, limit straps, shifter linkages, axle boots, etc, etc. People have fallen prey to the cheap or old boots. They help keep the dirt off the diff wipe seals and out of the differential. Better to fix a small problem before it becomes a big leaky problem. This particular truck is an extreme example of submarine commander and lack of maintenance. Pinzgauers are not too difficult to keep running so if you drive them maintain them. We don't like scrapping Pinzgauers.

Cheers,

Scott

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 3:01 pm
by Brickren
So , how long should it take to split the axle and reassemble? Is doing the front any different than the rear? I want to put OEM boots on.

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Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 4:23 pm
by Jimm391730
So , how long should it take to split the axle and reassemble? Is doing the front any different than the rear?
Once you have the tools to pull the hub assembly off the axle stub, changing the boot is easy. Then you need to get the hub back on the axle properly. Of course, to do so you need to disconnect the brake line which will require bleeding and this may take as much time as changing the boot. In theory, it is not too difficult. Fronts may require removing the tie rod bracket.

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 5:59 pm
by Andre
Jimm391730 wrote:
So , how long should it take to split the axle and reassemble? Is doing the front any different than the rear?
Once you have the tools to pull the hub assembly off the axle stub, changing the boot is easy. Then you need to get the hub back on the axle properly. Of course, to do so you need to disconnect the brake line which will require bleeding and this may take as much time as changing the boot. In theory, it is not too difficult. Fronts may require removing the tie rod bracket.
and pulling the front springs with the appropriate spring compressor.

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 6:03 pm
by Jimm391730
and pulling the front springs with the appropriate spring compressor.
Oh, Yeah, that too... :oops:

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:13 pm
by 4x4Pinz
once tools out and I really want to get the job done, I can change the boot and have the truck back on the road in 3 hours. Takes a full day to do both when time to get out tools and put away. Along with other precautions don't forget that the axles are clamped, pinned and "glued" in place. the fronts are a different animal. Taking the steering linkage off is a large variable. Springs are not a big deal with the "correct" tools. As has been mentioned there are a large variance in the quality of split boots available. Some of them don't even make a good trail repair. We have had split boots on some trucks for a lot of miles with no ill effects. I would consider installing quality split boots if taking the axle halves off is not necessary for any other maintenance needs. Several things can go wrong while removing/installing the axle halves that are just not worth the risk.

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 8:52 pm
by Brickren
OK good thank you. I guess that is what I wanted to know. I don't want to do an axle pull. I just want to do a good job. I've done split boots on 2 Pinz. One I did on a friends and my then own. He bought SAV for his truck and I went the cheap way. 2 years later, I'm redoing mine while his have been on for 7+ years. Now I am buying them again. I think I saved maybe $50 on the bargain boots. Not a wise choice. A lot of times it's shipping that seems to make a difference in my head. This is one of those time it bit me in the butt. I'm not driving a jeep. There are no bargain parts. Only parts that work. I'm slowly learning important lessons. I love you guys. Almost as much as my Pinz. Not as much as my wife, though. Just so we're straight. I would not be able to have this truck if it wasn't for this board.

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Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 10:44 pm
by rmel
Well that did it, got me worried about my front boots. No signs of cracks -- yet! But they
are getting old. Rears are relatively new, did that with an upgrade to EX-II. Just in case I
just bought two split boots from EI, IMHO they will be the best split boots you can buy.
Don't feel like pulling axles on a good diff, huge PITA :wink:

Re: Slit boots rotting

Posted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 3:56 am
by Hotzenplotz
Folks

Pulling the axle is not too difficult, if you have the proper tools.
Once is is separated, take your time to clean out the glue remains with sandpaper.
Reassembly is not too difficult if you don't use the original wedge.
I have used a chisel that is 2 mm thicker than the wedge, and so the axle slides back on easily

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