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My clutch feels like the engagement point is JUST at the edge of pedal release. Anymore and it will slip. Would a shorter clutch engagement pin improve pedal positioning?

would be worth trying - a few minutes with a grinder would tell... of course you would need to order a new regular one still.

Looks like there are three sizes - 152, 154 and 156 mm long - here is a picture of the longest one - a "two stripe" 156mm.



$42 new / $35 used from SAV

Do you know which one you have in there?

I stopped buying the cross referenced clutch and pressure plates because of this exact issue. You just never knew where the pedal was going to end up. The disk and plate I get from SAV leave the pedal at a normal feel.
We have also seen the pedal pivot point under the dash with excessive wear causing clutch pedal issues and of course poor quality or dirty fluid in the system.

Not sure, but not the double striped one. That much i know.

I remember adding a dab with my welder when i first received the truck. It would not release enough to get into gear, and adding a bit moved the engagement point far enough that it felt normal. I guess its time to grind off my welded "dab" and give her a go.

4x4Pinz wrote:I stopped buying the cross referenced clutch and pressure plates because of this exact issue. You just never knew where the pedal was going to end up. The disk and plate I get from SAV leave the pedal at a normal feel.
We have also seen the pedal pivot point under the dash with excessive wear causing clutch pedal issues and of course poor quality or dirty fluid in the system.

It was a bit sudden on the change. I'll swap out the fluid to be sure

take a good look at the clutch pedal linkage. Have had to drive one home without the ability to use the clutch at all when the pedal assembly failed. Good thing there is no safety switch on the transmission and these trucks will start in gear.

Removed the bead i added to the pin. Wont go into reverse. My guess, the pin was 152 originally. I bumped it up to 154 and i was right where i was to start. I added a second bead to 156 and it helped. So to answer my original question... longer is better when the clutch is wearing

4x4Pinz wrote:take a good look at the clutch pedal linkage. Have had to drive one home without the ability to use the clutch at all when the pedal assembly failed. Good thing there is no safety switch on the transmission and these trucks will start in gear.

Everything looks good. There is more "dead" travel than i would expect, but to be honest, its not that i have to depress the pedal fully to the floor. All of the action is very close to the top of the release. I am amazed by how a couple of millimeters makes such a difference. Very different than my days of cable actuated clutches

When I replaced the clutches in both of my 710M's, the pedal feel changed a LOT! Instead of it engaging near the "top" of the pedal stroke, it engaged down near the "bottom" of the pedal stroke.
After wearing in for a few months, the pedal stroke feels much better now... more towards the middle.

I don't see it mentioned. Did you make sure the clutch fluid is topped up and that there is no air in the system?

Cheers, Clive

I was told one time that you can also just add a washer at the pivot point. I can't give exact details, but doing this accomplishes the same thing as changing the length of the rod at a fraction of the cost. Just don't drop any of the parts into the bell housing.

Hmm, not sure where to place that washer. The pin is easy enough to tack a bead onto and grind down until you can get it into gear. Honestly, the biggest challenge is finding a measuring caliper long enough. Mine is just a couple centimeters short.