Splitting Axle

[SAM. C.]

Hi All

Is it possible to split an axle without the tool in the EI video?

I need to split mine but have nothing like this and would rather not have to make it.

If I manage to get it off does it just push on or have to be pressed back somehow?

Sam

[Haf-e]

It is possible to separate the outer half of the axle without the factory tool - it depends how well it was glued together with blue loctite when it was assembled. The challenge is not putting too much force on the back side of the brake casting which is thinner and more apt to be damaged.

Putting it back on isn't that difficult - if its clean it should just slide on and if its difficult a simple "TURN BUCKLE" with a chain can be rigged up to pull it slowly inward so that the locking bolt can be inserted.

Finding the right "chisel" is critical to insert into the slot where it gets clamped together - you might need to grind it down to get it thick enough to open it up so it slides on and off easily. The chisel is needed also when reassembling the axle too.

[rmel]

Haf-e nailed it, The chisel "expander" is key, but may not break the bond entirely.
The one thing to keep an eye on is after re-assembly, the locking bolt is NOT an
alignment bolt, it has a lot of slop. What you need to ensure is that the alignment
is "true" watch for the spacing of the shock absorber. Get that alignment true to eye
then check to make sure there is proper spacing to the shock. I had a rotation
problem so bad that chafing wore right through the shock body. I was lucky enough
that the chisel was sufficient to rotate the wheel drive into proper alignment. More
important than Loctite is torque on the pinch bolts -- which should be checked for
proper torque as routine maintenance.

[Jimm391730]

Another trick that I have heard of (not done myself) is to get a "porta power" type tool: https://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-hea ... 62115.html and is supposed to be faster and easier to remove the axle from the stub.

[SAM. C.]

Thanks Guys

Is the chisel a magic little tool or will any cold chisel do?

If it is special I may make one if I can get specs.

Sam

[rmel]

I got mine at Harbor Freight. 4" wide. Then you just gently bang it in to expand the joint.
You may need to blunt the edge down so that it just fits in the seam.

[Jimm391730]

Is the chisel a magic little tool or will any cold chisel do?

Well, the chisel needs to be narrow enough to be able to get started in the slot, then gradually get thicker as to wedge the slot open enough to get it off the stub before the chisel hits the stub. I would think that a 3/4" or 1" wide chisel would do (opening one area of the slot should open the rest of it) but a 4" wide will certainly do it but may be more difficult to work with. Chisels are relatively cheap so you can always get another and grind it to fit. One advantage of a less wide version is that if you didn't get the slot open enough with one, try a second one next to it that is ground just a bit thicker to open the slot further.

It's only magic when you have the exact thickness and taper that does the job for you!

[4x4Pinz]

I use a blunt cold chisel that is 3/4" to spread the clamp on the end of outer able housing. A 2x4 cut to length from the top of able housing to body to keep the axle level. Then the pinz Jack with the pump of the Jack facing down so it can pick up fluid when pumping. Once the able have have split an inch or so they should slide off. Reinstall with cold chisel in clamp as with removal and it should slide on freely. Use a liberal amount of loctite on the housing as this is part of the attachment process. It is a good idea to order up a new o ring for the end of the axle.

[murrayjp]

afternoon All
I am getting ready to split the axle. I have a 82 712. I have the tool to split it, but my shock and retaining strap are on the side side of the axle. so I can only screw to bolt in one side. will that work ok just using the tool on one side of the axle. next question should I replace the complete rubber seal/metal seal instead of just trying to replace the rubber seal inside the metal ring. So I am planning on replacing the two orings and metal/rubber seal. what about the most inter rubber seal inside the Diff how do I know if it is bad?
thanks
Bill in Jacksonville flat

[murrayjp]

I got it apart going to put it all back together this weekend

[murrayjp]

aLL DONE
Had to run a die across the. aliment bolt threads to clean them up to get in to go back in smooth. took about thirty mins good to go

[murrayjp]

I must have done such a good job on the middle axle that my rear one is leaking so round two solid boots for all