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I feel a little stupid, but for the life of me I cannot get the top two screws on the panel that covers the lockers control to budge- tried the usual -penetrating oil, heat, extra cursing, talking to onesself, etc. It's pretty tight behind it, and i'm wondering if there is a nut back there I have to remove or not. Is there a trick to getting this thing off- bottom screws came out no problem.

Are you referring to the Plate that houses the locker light indicators?
That plate is held in place with Vibrex-locks, 1/4 turn screws that lock
in place by crushing a rubber grommet.

They can bind and be difficult to remove at times, typically turning in
place and not releasing. What you are describing sounds a bit more than
what one typically encounters.

Do they look like this below? If not perhaps someone came up with a DIY
substitute. You could drill the heads off, remove plate and replace them.

https://swissarmyvehicles.com/pinzgauer ... -platedash

Its not the light panel, its the lower panel that i need to get access behind, My lockers are frozen - so i need to get to the hydraulic units.

Well in that case, should be 4ea M6 Phillips head screws -- no?
Nut's are part of the chassis with no means to get a socket on
them from behind. Perhaps engage a #1 Phillips driver socket
and give it a love tap with a hammer to break it free.

I agree with rmel but use a #3 phillips. I've had these get stuck before too.

Oops -- Yes, #3, #1 is a small guy

Success-

The number 3 Phillips with a "love tap" and they came right out. I was getting ready to drill them out. Thanks so much. Now i just have to figure out why not of them want to move- they all feel like they are hitting a stop - just a few millimeters in.

Great - glad those fasteners finally gave in.

It would be a good idea to completely flush all 3 of the hydraulic lines since they do tend to get gummed up over time. I'd start by removing the indicator light panel for access to the fluid reservoir. Then remove the cap and strainer, and using a turkey baster (not the one from the kitchen ) or similar device, remove as much of the fluid and built up gunk that you can.

I would try disconnecting each line at the matching slave cylinder and then try operating the lever for that line. Do NOT force the lever as they will break and as I recall they are about $30 a piece. If you do get them to move, flushing fresh brake fluid thru the lines may be all you need to do, though I would consider rebuilding the master cylinders and the slave cylinders. They do tend to get gummed up due to intermittent use.

Hope this helps. Good luck!

Well, it looks like a rebuild is needed- disconnected all the lines and none of them moved any better. So, I pulled them out and I am now investigating the rebuild procedure. Do you know if hey are all the same? i.e. do I need to keep track of which lives in each spot?

The masters are identical.

If all three are binding, I'd be suspicious that each has been contaminated with
a fair dose of crud from the reservoir and distribution tubing -- rubber T-joints
and Elbows. Some crud plugging up the input orifice.

You might want to replace the rubber T's and Elbows in case they have started
to disintegrate internally. Easy to do now, PITA later.