cylinder cup and seal

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acurtis
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cylinder cup and seal

Post by acurtis » Fri Mar 20, 2020 10:18 am

Rebuilding my hydraulic masters. I got the rebuild kits, But I'm not sure about one of the seals (grooved cup),
seal.jpg
seal.jpg (86.7 KiB) Viewed 1212 times
Do I need a special tool or does the white cup remove somehow? unscrew / just pull out- I don't want to try and force something that is not intended to move. I tried stretching the seal over the end, but even warmed up, I can't see it making it.

acurtis
United States of America
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Joined: Mon Jan 06, 2020 11:30 pm

Re: cylinder cup and seal

Post by acurtis » Fri Mar 20, 2020 6:47 pm

Well the cup does pull off with a little prying with a razor knife- I was able to muscle the seal over the end. Really tight though - my arthritic thumbs will be reminding about the job for a week.

newtopinz
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Location: Monterey Bay area, CA

Re: cylinder cup and seal

Post by newtopinz » Sat Mar 21, 2020 8:38 pm

Can you put the seal in from the other end instead of the white plastic cup end?

I am rebuilding mine too but the piston is stuck at the entrance. I can compress it but cant pull it out apart. Any ideas how i can get the piston out? I tried compressed air but no luck

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Hotzenplotz
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Re: cylinder cup and seal

Post by Hotzenplotz » Sun Mar 22, 2020 3:27 am

If compressed air does not work i have successfully used a grease gun .
Just bear in mind that you have to degrease all parts properly....
Cheers
Albert
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My Pinz has NEVER been with any army

newtopinz
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Re: cylinder cup and seal

Post by newtopinz » Sun Mar 22, 2020 4:00 am

I take it I have to release the banjo bolts for the grease gun to fit? Or can I do it from the reservoir opening?
What's the best way to remove the grease afterwards?

Any contraindication to hone the cylinders? Mine seem to get stuck right at the opening. I am hoping a fine sand paper would smooth it out but thought about rehoning if needed.

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Hotzenplotz
Austria
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Re: cylinder cup and seal

Post by Hotzenplotz » Sun Mar 22, 2020 8:23 am

I have used that approach for brake cylinders on the front axle.
They have the bleeding connector facing inwards and another smaller pipe connecting both cylinders.
I took an old piece of brake pipe and soldered a grease nipple to the other end. So I was able to use the full pressure of the grease gut.
I kept the whole setup in a bucked 'cause when it popped out there was grease everywhere ...
Washing afterwards in several steps of fresh petrol until I was able to rinse them in brake cleaner.
Honing the cylinders was very helpful; for the repair I got the FTE repair kit RK28029 for about 18€ a set.
I have done that repair 4 years and about 25000 km ago; still working flawlessly
Cheers
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army

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rmel
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Re: cylinder cup and seal

Post by rmel » Sun Mar 22, 2020 9:36 am

When honing use "red" Scotch-Brite. It is more aggressive than the kitchen
variety, will remove surface oxidation but not damage the surface with
micro gouges. It will take a bit time. It's close to the abrasiveness of a
fine steel wool W/O the metal debris.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712M

Driver: Ron // KO0Q

newtopinz
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Joined: Tue Dec 31, 2019 5:59 pm
Location: Monterey Bay area, CA

Re: cylinder cup and seal

Post by newtopinz » Fri Mar 27, 2020 11:37 pm

I ended up using a screwdriver to push the cylinder out using a mallet. I had to remove the banjo bolts in order to do this. It will ruin the metal end piece but if you are planning to rebuild it as I did you will replace it anyway. I don't think it ruined anything and less messy than grease option.

I used vise grips to remove the white caps. Get a good grip, twist and pull. Left a little indent on it but dont think it will affect function.

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