cylinder cup and seal
cylinder cup and seal
Rebuilding my hydraulic masters. I got the rebuild kits, But I'm not sure about one of the seals (grooved cup),
Do I need a special tool or does the white cup remove somehow? unscrew / just pull out- I don't want to try and force something that is not intended to move. I tried stretching the seal over the end, but even warmed up, I can't see it making it.Re: cylinder cup and seal
Well the cup does pull off with a little prying with a razor knife- I was able to muscle the seal over the end. Really tight though - my arthritic thumbs will be reminding about the job for a week.
Re: cylinder cup and seal
Can you put the seal in from the other end instead of the white plastic cup end?
I am rebuilding mine too but the piston is stuck at the entrance. I can compress it but cant pull it out apart. Any ideas how i can get the piston out? I tried compressed air but no luck
I am rebuilding mine too but the piston is stuck at the entrance. I can compress it but cant pull it out apart. Any ideas how i can get the piston out? I tried compressed air but no luck
- Hotzenplotz
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:07 am
- Location: Vienna, Austria
Re: cylinder cup and seal
If compressed air does not work i have successfully used a grease gun .
Just bear in mind that you have to degrease all parts properly....
Just bear in mind that you have to degrease all parts properly....
Cheers
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
Re: cylinder cup and seal
I take it I have to release the banjo bolts for the grease gun to fit? Or can I do it from the reservoir opening?
What's the best way to remove the grease afterwards?
Any contraindication to hone the cylinders? Mine seem to get stuck right at the opening. I am hoping a fine sand paper would smooth it out but thought about rehoning if needed.
What's the best way to remove the grease afterwards?
Any contraindication to hone the cylinders? Mine seem to get stuck right at the opening. I am hoping a fine sand paper would smooth it out but thought about rehoning if needed.
- Hotzenplotz
- Posts: 371
- Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2012 9:07 am
- Location: Vienna, Austria
Re: cylinder cup and seal
I have used that approach for brake cylinders on the front axle.
They have the bleeding connector facing inwards and another smaller pipe connecting both cylinders.
I took an old piece of brake pipe and soldered a grease nipple to the other end. So I was able to use the full pressure of the grease gut.
I kept the whole setup in a bucked 'cause when it popped out there was grease everywhere ...
Washing afterwards in several steps of fresh petrol until I was able to rinse them in brake cleaner.
Honing the cylinders was very helpful; for the repair I got the FTE repair kit RK28029 for about 18€ a set.
I have done that repair 4 years and about 25000 km ago; still working flawlessly
They have the bleeding connector facing inwards and another smaller pipe connecting both cylinders.
I took an old piece of brake pipe and soldered a grease nipple to the other end. So I was able to use the full pressure of the grease gut.
I kept the whole setup in a bucked 'cause when it popped out there was grease everywhere ...
Washing afterwards in several steps of fresh petrol until I was able to rinse them in brake cleaner.
Honing the cylinders was very helpful; for the repair I got the FTE repair kit RK28029 for about 18€ a set.
I have done that repair 4 years and about 25000 km ago; still working flawlessly
Cheers
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
Albert
========================
My Pinz has NEVER been with any army
Re: cylinder cup and seal
When honing use "red" Scotch-Brite. It is more aggressive than the kitchen
variety, will remove surface oxidation but not damage the surface with
micro gouges. It will take a bit time. It's close to the abrasiveness of a
fine steel wool W/O the metal debris.
variety, will remove surface oxidation but not damage the surface with
micro gouges. It will take a bit time. It's close to the abrasiveness of a
fine steel wool W/O the metal debris.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK
Driver: Ron // KO0Q
Re: cylinder cup and seal
I ended up using a screwdriver to push the cylinder out using a mallet. I had to remove the banjo bolts in order to do this. It will ruin the metal end piece but if you are planning to rebuild it as I did you will replace it anyway. I don't think it ruined anything and less messy than grease option.
I used vise grips to remove the white caps. Get a good grip, twist and pull. Left a little indent on it but dont think it will affect function.
I used vise grips to remove the white caps. Get a good grip, twist and pull. Left a little indent on it but dont think it will affect function.