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Rebuilding my hydraulic masters. I got the rebuild kits, But I'm not sure about one of the seals (grooved cup), Do I need a special tool or does the white cup remove somehow? unscrew / just pull out- I don't want to try and force something that is not intended to move. I tried stretching the seal over the end, but even warmed up, I can't see it making it.

Well the cup does pull off with a little prying with a razor knife- I was able to muscle the seal over the end. Really tight though - my arthritic thumbs will be reminding about the job for a week.

Can you put the seal in from the other end instead of the white plastic cup end?

I am rebuilding mine too but the piston is stuck at the entrance. I can compress it but cant pull it out apart. Any ideas how i can get the piston out? I tried compressed air but no luck

If compressed air does not work i have successfully used a grease gun .
Just bear in mind that you have to degrease all parts properly....

I take it I have to release the banjo bolts for the grease gun to fit? Or can I do it from the reservoir opening?
What's the best way to remove the grease afterwards?

Any contraindication to hone the cylinders? Mine seem to get stuck right at the opening. I am hoping a fine sand paper would smooth it out but thought about rehoning if needed.

I have used that approach for brake cylinders on the front axle.
They have the bleeding connector facing inwards and another smaller pipe connecting both cylinders.
I took an old piece of brake pipe and soldered a grease nipple to the other end. So I was able to use the full pressure of the grease gut.
I kept the whole setup in a bucked 'cause when it popped out there was grease everywhere ...
Washing afterwards in several steps of fresh petrol until I was able to rinse them in brake cleaner.
Honing the cylinders was very helpful; for the repair I got the FTE repair kit RK28029 for about 18€ a set.
I have done that repair 4 years and about 25000 km ago; still working flawlessly

When honing use "red" Scotch-Brite. It is more aggressive than the kitchen
variety, will remove surface oxidation but not damage the surface with
micro gouges. It will take a bit time. It's close to the abrasiveness of a
fine steel wool W/O the metal debris.

I ended up using a screwdriver to push the cylinder out using a mallet. I had to remove the banjo bolts in order to do this. It will ruin the metal end piece but if you are planning to rebuild it as I did you will replace it anyway. I don't think it ruined anything and less messy than grease option.

I used vise grips to remove the white caps. Get a good grip, twist and pull. Left a little indent on it but dont think it will affect function.