Rear axle boots

[blackstack]

Anyone have any hints on getting a good seal between the outboard edge of the boot and the axle? Should the boot be inboard or outboard of the slight bump on the axle?

Is it possible to get a completely dry seal or should I learn to live with a slight weep?

Any hints on how to best install the split boots appreciated.

[undysworld]

From memory, the outer end of the split-boot fits up onto that hump and is fastened there by the smaller clamp.

It should be a fairly tight seal, even w/o the clamp, IIRC.

The boot is not meant to contain any oil. If you've got oil in the boot, you've got a leaky seal between the axle and the diff. casing. The boot just keeps dirt away from the surface where the axle pivots. A slight weep is acceptable.

I've used the glue and nuts/bolts to glue the split boot together, and then I let that dry before trying to slide the boot in place and apply the clamps. Otherwise, the ends of the split seem to want to open up again.

When you install the boot, pay close attention to how they telll you to orient the split. It's always to the right as you face the differential. This is important because of the offset of each axle to the right. By aligning it thusly, you put the least strain on the split as the axle pivots. (I'm not sure whether most people realize that the axles are not directly opposite each other. There is an offset of the left from the right due to the offset of the gears inside the differentials.)

That's all I remember...

[blackstack]

Is the seal just an O ring? Group 3-10 #8 in drawing?

Is there a fix that doesnt involve pulling the whole rear end? If I check and maintain the lube level should I be too worried about the bad seal?

[undysworld]

Sorry, I'm getting sketchy here. I don't have my manuals here.

When you put the o-ring in during a diff. service, you do it with the diff. case bolts still loosened, then torque the bolts down. But IIRC you can also do it without removing the diff. from the truck. Hopefully someone more versed in this will chime in.

I'd guess as long as you've got lube in the diff., you're good to go. How often are you willing to be dealing with gear lube??

[Erik712m]

http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 101322541/

[undysworld]

#8 was the oring I was remembering, I believe. I did not replace part 6 when I serviced my diffs.

I did replace that whole collar once, and it seems I only had to pull the wheel drive, not the whole diff.

Where's Jim or Dave or Dennis when we need 'em...

[Erik712m]

It's the part I posted. If it was the o-ring it wouldn't be leaking into the boot. Wheel drive has to come off pretty easy to do you just have to follow the directions in the repair manual.

[Jim LaGuardia]

I am busy with a few projects.
The boots face 10:00 or 2:00 depending on side.
If oil is getting into the boots, the stop ring is leaking and needs replacement. Pull wheel drive and boot, remove stop ring, super glue O ring to channel, lube sealing surface, swear a lot and hope the ring goes in smoothly without damaging the O ring.

[blackstack]

Thanks for all the input !! I am tri-lingual in swearing so that part wont be a problem.......Am I wrong in assuming the the O ring (part 901-3797) is most likey the only new part neccessary and barring some sort of bad karma the rest of the assembly is most likely "used but good" ? makes a big difference in how long I will be eating Top Raman

[Jim LaGuardia]

You will be replacing the entire stop ring, the oil seal is molded to it, the dust seal is the thick rubber insert on the boot side, the O ring seals it to the diff housing.
It would be smart to use a one piece boot if you are replacing a stop ring.

[Erik712m]

Jim, when I replaced mine I used non drying silicone grease to hold the o-ring in place.

http://store.poolcenter.com/shared/Stor ... 2Cart=True