Split boot replacement - looking for the dos and don't

[texas pinzgauer]

I finally have a ripped boot after 5+ years of Pinzgauer ownership, so I'm going to order several from the forum sponsor (who shall remain nameless).

I've gotten some excellent guidance from Morris in Denver but if anyone has any suggestions or recommendations on the dos and don'ts of this project, please let me hear about it.

Thanks in advance.

[krick3tt]

I merely echoed advice that had been given out by Jim and Scott. ...that along with my own experiences
enabled me to pass on some words of wisdom. Hope that it helped.

[texas pinzgauer]

Just trying to give you some recognition sir!

If anyone else has any tips to share on this project, please feel free to chime in.

[krick3tt]

I do truly appreciate it, David. Glad to be of service..

[totaljoint]

When I did mine, I checked an old post by Jim which has the step by step process and some caution points too. Do a search for that one!

[texas pinzgauer]

Will do, thanks

[texas pinzgauer]

I was never able to find Jim's old post. If someone out there remembers it of those details, I'd appreciate seeing his (or your) comments on this project.

Thanks!

[waterdog]

if doing front boots , get a nice set of spring compressors, i use some regular ones and did not work, those front springs are HARD!!! nevermind.. you are doing split boots.....

[totaljoint]

Texas:
I can't find Jim's old post either, but the essentials as I recall:

1. Position the split boot far enough outboard on the axle where it narrows, so that when you glue it there is no tension on the seam.
2. Spread an even layer of glue all along the seam (all along, or you will get a gap at the very ends when tension is applied by sliding it into position...mine ended up with a very slight gap at the heel of the seem on the larger inboard side) where it is harder to clamp.
Clamp with many clamps for even pressure until the glue sets.... and then some. You won't have a second chance to glue gaps.
3. Once you are happy with the seam, position it at 10 or 2 o'clock (10 on the passenger side, 2 on the driver's). This is because the seam should not be where rocks/debris will catch it, and also be on the plane of minimal movement (flexion) of the axle- you want to flex/compress the seam as little as possible for longevity)
4. I lightly greased the openings of the boot with silicone grease to help it slide up the axle into position for clamping.

This is from memory, so don't take ir as gospel.
Jim: I hope I relayed your instructions correctly!
Ed

[texas pinzgauer]

Your comments and suggestions mirror those of Morris so I'll take it was the preferred methodology for this project. Thanks again for the tips.

[ScottishPinz]

I don't remember using glue, just silicone. I have some pictures of the job here http://www.pinzgauer.4x4man.com/Photos.html I remember it was very easy!

[undysworld]

position it at 10 or 2 o'clock (10 on the passenger side, 2 on the driver's).

I believe this is incorrect. I believe they should be at the 2-3 o'clock position on all wheels. It is my understanding that there is less flex there than anywhere else, because the axle is offset to the right on each axle. You avoid the obvious extended flex in the up-down direction, and the right side is subjected to less extension than the left because of the offset. I believe this is also per SAV directions, IIRC.

Any pros out there to answer more definitively?

Paul

[krick3tt]

Thanks for the endorsement David...you forgot to mention the sandwich and beer. It is an integral part of the assembly. IIRC.

[texas pinzgauer]

I didn't want to give you too much credit Morris. You never specified what kind of beer was preferred!

[pcolette]

David - thought I'd put in my 2 cents worth.
I installed all new split boots from SAV on my '73 back in Dec '06 and followed the included directions. Now granted, I'm not too hard on my Pinz but all 4 boots are still in good shape with no splits, tears or leakage. Since then I've also used split boots from IE and found them to be of equal quality.
As directed by SAV I used Loctite 414 to glue the split together. 414 is actually superglue formulated to work fast and strong with rubber. It will also glue your fingers together or to the boot very fast, and yes, I learned the hard way.

Instructions from SAV (with some minor editing from me):
- Remove old boot and clean area.
- Do not grease boot or axle parts.
- Put the split boot on the axle.
- Coat the split area with Loctite #414 and press together. Hold until dry (approx 30-60 seconds depending on how much you put on).
- Slide the split boot towards the differential housing as far as it goes.
- Rotate the boot until the split points to the front on the right side (passenger) and to the rear on the left side (driver).
- Install the new clamps. The tightening bolts should be on the opposite side from the split.

SAV Split Boot Inst.jpeg (68.35 KiB) Viewed 7499 times

Ed's/Paul's instructions sound great also. If you combine everything and use your own common sense it should come out fine.