Tackling a split boot

[berger]

EDIT

[berger]

EDIT

[berger]

Nothing?

[berger]

Ok...one more question...is the rubber dust ring simply pulled from the retaining ring, or does the retaining ring have to come off too?

[pcolette]

I haven't had to do this project myself but I seem to recall from previous posts that the axle must be removed in order to replace the rubber dust ring and any associated seals. Those that have done it say it is not overly difficult if the repair manual is followed.

[westernair]

luckly I have yet to do this repair as well so I have no advice to offer. I know several on here have done so hopefully someone will chime in with experiance.

[undysworld]

I did one on the front, but it was several years ago, and I'm a bit foggy on what I did. I believe you "simply" need to pull the wheel drive and install the new ring seal.

I believe even the metal ring with it's o-ring can be reinstalled this way, but it's difficult at best. It's normally, and more easily, put into the differential before you close it up, IIRC.

As Paul wrote, following the manual step-by-step is probably the best bet.

[berger]

Thanks guys. I think I am going to pull the drive, but compressing the spring makes me nervous and I want to have the right tool. I was told the rubber seal is part of the ring, but it is sold separately on SAV. Do I have to open the case to remove/install the metal ring? That is going to be a PITA!

[undysworld]

Do you have a Repair Manual yet? It has the step-by-step procedure. Mine are over at my shop, so I don't have access here. But you really NEED the manuals if you're going to be tackling these sorts of jobs by yourself.

Compressing those springs (at least the fronts) should make you nervous. I had a blacksmith make me the tool. It's a little like strut compressors, but MUCH STOUTER. I don't think your average strut compressor would even fit in there, and I sure wouldn't want to be around it when tensioned. (Think of a quick painful injury or death.) If you cannot find one of the proper compressors, I'd think twice about doing the job yourself.

Yes, if you end up getting into a differential, it is a bit of a PIA. (On the other hand, seeing how they work internally is pretty fascinating, as Scott's video shows: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9wNbXZf6wU)

[berger]

Do you have a Repair Manual yet? It has the step-by-step procedure. Mine are over at my shop, so I don't have access here. But you really NEED the manuals if you're going to be tackling these sorts of jobs by yourself.

Compressing those springs (at least the fronts) should make you nervous. I had a blacksmith make me the tool. It's a little like strut compressors, but MUCH STOUTER. I don't think your average strut compressor would even fit in there, and I sure wouldn't want to be around it when tensioned. (Think of a quick painful injury or death.) If you cannot find one of the proper compressors, I'd think twice about doing the job yourself.

Yes, if you end up getting into a differential, it is a bit of a PIA. (On the other hand, seeing how they work internally is pretty fascinating, as Scott's video shows: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G9wNbXZf6wU)

Yes, I have the manuals, but it isn't clear on removing the metal ring and the stop ring seal. The t-case is out in their example. I have read that they are one piece some places, and in others they are two. SAV and EI sell the rubber ring as separate pieces, so how can they be integrated?

As for the spring...ya, that is what has be hesitant. So would a strut compressor like this work?

Feature(s)

* Alloy steel centre bolt. Hook is drop forged, heat-treated carbon steel. Quickly compresses the coil spring to replace the shock absorber or spring set. Storage case.
Material Heat treated carbon steel


Or this one...
Adjustable safeguard prevents accidental release of spring under load and enables the removal parts of tool to always operate parallel. 2,600 lb maximum capacity per pair. Jaw capacity: 1" to 11".

[undysworld]

Okay. What you're referring to as a T-case is, I think, the differential. At least if it's the part that the axles come out from, it's a diff. As I recall, you set the two halves of the diff together and lightly screwed together, and then you work the whole metal thingy in. Then you tighten the diff. But I believe that if you are careful and lucky, it is possible to do from the outside. I'd call the supplier and discuss the difference in their parts. Sorry, it's been a long time.

I don't think the first example will work because the bolts extend past the upper hook as you tighten the spring.

The second one seems more similar, in that the arms don't look to extend beyond the upper hooks. But the factory tool has a base plate which secures the two arms in place too. Perhaps that's what the curved piece on this tool does?

[berger]

Okay. What you're referring to as a T-case is, I think, the differential. At least if it's the part that the axles come out from, it's a diff. As I recall, you set the two halves of the diff together and lightly screwed together, and then you work the whole metal thingy in. Then you tighten the diff. But I believe that if you are careful and lucky, it is possible to do from the outside. I'd call the supplier and discuss the difference in their parts. Sorry, it's been a long time.

I don't think the first example will work because the bolts extend past the upper hook as you tighten the spring.

The second one seems more similar, in that the arms don't look to extend beyond the upper hooks. But the factory tool has a base plate which secures the two arms in place too. Perhaps that's what the curved piece on this tool does?

Ya...diff.... Thanks! I am hoping I can do this without touching the diff

I may just put a split boot on now and monitor the oil levels....I had been driving the truck with the busted seal, torn boot with grease/oil in it, as received from Pinzgauer Canada, so I will change all the gear-oils and monitor until I get the parts I need.

For the record, I did search the forum, but not all cases are the same, and I couldn't find a reference to removing the metal and stop rings without removing the diff. Tackling the axle is not intimidating to me....other than the spring of course.

[pviljoen]

I am doing the same in replacing the Boots on my truck. Can you give me more details on the safety equipment you have in this picture. And where to order.

[undysworld]

That ain't safety gear. More like "unsafety gear", IMHO. Those are strut compressors, used to compress the springs on a macpherson strut. But they ARE NOT what I'd want to be using to pull the front springs on a Pinz. They might work, but they might also bust. A loose Pinz spring bouncing around could kill you.

If you're going to pull the wheel drives (which you must do to install a non-split boot), you really need something like the factory compressor. I'm not sure where you'd buy the original, but I had a local blacksmith make me one. It cost about $200, but it's a monster.

Otherwise, buy split boots, install them carefully, and keep an eye on them for damage.

[pinzmeister-uk]

This is the spring compressor I use, I wouldn't trust anything less than this, I value my life too much!!