A leaking front boot question

Diffs, axles, lockers, transmissions, portals, that kind of thing.
User avatar
edzz
United States of America
Posts: 1309
Joined: Tue Aug 11, 2009 12:13 am
Location: Coeur d'Alene, ID

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by edzz »

Andre wrote:I can testify to the failure of the locator pin/bolt to keep the axle from spining on the stub shaft. I clean the stub shaft as to remove any rust/debris and reassemble dry. If the porta-power is used correctly, it wont cause any damage when removing. I install the axle end with a wedge and a lever.
Andre, what are the odds that this one had been put together without Lock-Tite? :cry:
Attachments
deadbull.jpg
deadbull.jpg (67.98 KiB) Viewed 4077 times
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
User avatar
Andre
United States of America
Posts: 960
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 10:41 pm
Location: Winnsboro Tx
Contact:

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by Andre »

too scary for me to hang out and help. I would have left as soon as I had seen the proposed strut compressor.
Fat Fabrications
2993 FM 1647
Winnsboro, TX. 75494
fatfabrications@yahoo.com
(903) 365-2332 shop
(951) 765-7224 mobile
Facebook.com/dokapinz6x6
Www.fatfabrications.com
User avatar
Andre
United States of America
Posts: 960
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 10:41 pm
Location: Winnsboro Tx
Contact:

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by Andre »

There were a few contributing factors to that former Red Bull Carnage. 1 tires had not been aired down. 2 oversized tires 3 more power. when the front tire was on an obsticle, the tire wedged itself hard against the sheet metal pan under the seat. When power was applied (via low range, 1st gear), the tire acted as a giant leaver and something had to give. Better the shear pin than internal Diff. parts. Locktite would not have helped in this scenario, it would have hindered. My .02
Fat Fabrications
2993 FM 1647
Winnsboro, TX. 75494
fatfabrications@yahoo.com
(903) 365-2332 shop
(951) 765-7224 mobile
Facebook.com/dokapinz6x6
Www.fatfabrications.com
undysworld
Norway
Posts: 1776
Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
Location: Blue Mounds, WI

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by undysworld »

too scary for me to hang out and help. I would have left as soon as I had seen the proposed strut compressor.
AMEN!!! Lord, thats frightening just to look at in photos! :shock: :shock: Can you imagine lifting up the spring in that condition?
User avatar
Andre
United States of America
Posts: 960
Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 10:41 pm
Location: Winnsboro Tx
Contact:

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by Andre »

Like Wile-ee Cyote walking with a giant mouse trap.
Fat Fabrications
2993 FM 1647
Winnsboro, TX. 75494
fatfabrications@yahoo.com
(903) 365-2332 shop
(951) 765-7224 mobile
Facebook.com/dokapinz6x6
Www.fatfabrications.com
undysworld
Norway
Posts: 1776
Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
Location: Blue Mounds, WI

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by undysworld »

Or a scene from The Hurt Locker.
texas pinzgauer
Posts: 1062
Joined: Mon Nov 19, 2007 2:43 pm
Location: Houston, Texas USA

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by texas pinzgauer »

I was JUST thinking The Hurt Locker!
Looking for next new (for me) toy
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
User avatar
19D20
Posts: 68
Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2011 7:00 pm
Location: Texas

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by 19D20 »

I knew you guys would have a fit when you saw the pics. Anyways ,it worked. It was'nt that scary until I took the spring off .I do way more dangerous stuff than that on a daily basis.

Image

Image
Nomad
Posts: 93
Joined: Sun Jul 14, 2013 1:20 pm

Re: A leaking front boot question

Post by Nomad »

I did all four rear axle boots with one-piece factory boots last weekend. You can split the axle and replace the boot in 30mins-1hr with the right tools and a bit of know how. All up, 2hrs top to have it off, back on with new boot and bleed the brakes. I should have took pictures but didn't but here is how we did it.

First I bought this kit;

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-heav ... 44899.html

A lot of bang for the buck but yes made in China. The ram fits perfectly between the axle housing and diff case. We used an offset foot on the axle side and a flat base on the diff side. We pressed off the axle on the axle side by using the off-set foot on one of the large tabs that are on the housing.

-jack up truck. Remove tire.
-remove brake line, pinch it off, I use large flat jaw vise grips for this.
-remove shock and limiting strap.
-jack up truck farther until the suspension hangs free. Use a large axle stand under the leaf spring, lower truck back down but only as much as is needed. This allows for the leaf spring tension to be off the stub axle without removing the leaf spring. IE, compress leaf spring.
-remove centering bolt and bolts for clamping the housing together.
-wedge a chisel into the split on bottom of axle housing. We pounded it in from the inside, IE the diff side as it gave us best results and you don't bottom out the chisel on the housing.
-set up blocks of wood under the brake drum to keep the whole assembly level. IMHO it is best to remove the axle housing with it level and not at an angle. IE, at neutral position not drooped or compressed.
-set up ram as I described above. Pump a couple times and the axle housing will move, it doesn't take tons of force if you have the chisel in good on the split. Move ram to other side and pump some more. If it is taking lot's of force and not moving, pound chisel in farther to spread the housing. Rinse and repeat until the housing can be pulled off by hand. We removed it with the brake drum on the assembly.
-once disassembled, clean stub axles with scotch bright or similar.
-slip on new one-piece boot. Make sure the part labeled "top" is on top! We put Toyota black silicone (best ever made!) on the boots sealing edges. Some say don't do this and some sources say do it. We did it and we only applied a very small bead.
-tighten down clamps on boot, don't over tighten. Put clamps back the way they were, on my truck that is with the screw towards the back of the truck.
-with the chisel still in the axle housing insert housing back onto stub. Align axle shaft and push on by hand, it will go pretty far on if the chisel has the housing spread enough. Use a 4x4 block of wood and 3+lbs sledge and pound housing on the rest of the way. Use block of wood in center of drum, IE between the wheel studs. Goes on pretty easy if you have the split opened up enough.
-Use large pry bar or screw driver inserted in shock bolt hole in outer axle housing to turn and align the axle. Once aligned, put in centering bolt. Remove chisel and put in locking bolts or clamping bolts if you prefer.
-install shock bolt (lower) and coat with lot's of anti-seize. Hook up and install shocks and limiting strap.
-hook up brake line.
-lift up truck and remove jack stand from leaf spring.
-re-install tire and rim.
-let truck down onto it's own weight.
-bleed brakes!

All done!

BTW, lock tight everything! :)

Really easy job. Although I will admit I had at least one person helping me. As a two man job it is not hard to do at all. No idea why people are so intimidated by doing this job and doing it right with one-piece boots, split boots are a field repair only. It really is an easy job, we did it in my front yard and the only tool I bought was the ram.
Post Reply