Easy way to remove them is to put an adjustable spanner just under the knob and lift. It puts no force on the shaft and fits the base of the knob just right.
Same for the knobs on the doors.
I tried Morris' method, and it works quite well. Just be careful not to loose the corrugated ring (07-15-19 Assembly) that fits between the olive knob and lever shaft. That ring holds the knob onto the shaft, and tended to either stick in the handle, or fly off and disappear into the ether when I tapped off the knob.
I've broken a couple of levers over the years (well one was broken when I brought the vehicle over 25 years ago ).
On the 712 the rear diff lock "relay levers" (27) are interlocked to the handle (21) and I've had the casting on the bottom of the handle break away where this "interlock" happens.
Once I replaced the parts I opted to replace original pivot/spring pins (23) with a long M8 bolt that I ran throught both relay levers and through the redundant hole in the lever thereby lessening the load on the "interlocks" themselves.....(I made up spacers as well)
A simple, hopefully effective modification, that improves the strength of the overall design.....it's worked OK to date!
I don't think I took any pics of the mod but next time I'm working in that area I can take some if anyone is interested!
the only ones we have seen fail are on the trucks where the fluids had not been changed and the owner had been complaining about slow to engage/disengage prior to the breakage.
I have had a few people riding with me that always want to play with the levers and I have to kindly ask they not do play with them. People who don't know the truck want to double stroke the levers and overstress things.
I've only ever heard of the lever breaking in the 712 as both rear diff locks are engaged at the same time via the one lever.....As the 710 doesn't have the "interlocks" and they are the part that fracture, I guess there is no excuse for breaking a lever on a 4X4
I must admit times on rough tracks when I've disengaged the rear lockers, only to find I needed them again before they have unlocked completely and have then "felt" for them to unlock/relock.
Overall I'm not really complaining about the last breakage given it happened after 15 years use....I wonder if I have a warranty claim??
Profpinz wrote:Overall I'm not really complaining about the last breakage given it happened after 15 years use....I wonder if I have a warranty claim??
Ah yes, all warranty claims are now being addressed by your mothers brother Robert.
Cum catapultae proscriptae erunt tum soli proscript catapultas habebunt.
Peter, think of the items you'll have to add to your kit for the TD.... besides brake fluid, you need to carry a can of vacuum, in case of a locker line leak. Let me tell you, it's no fun picking up vacuum on a trail and sticking it back in the lines
Then there is the can of electrons for locker switch failure, and a electron removal tool for the front drive switch if it sticks in a closed position...remember the basics... remove electrons for front drive, and add electrons for lockers... isn't much easier than that.... and if all else fail, suck!
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The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Then there is the can of electrons for locker switch failure, and a electron removal tool for the front drive switch if it sticks in a closed position...remember the basics... remove electrons for front drive, and add electrons for lockers... isn't much easier than that.... and if all else fail, suck!
WRONG!!! These applications require the can of compressed smoke! Along with the nozzle to get the smoke back into the wires...
Then there is the can of electrons for locker switch failure, and a electron removal tool for the front drive switch if it sticks in a closed position...remember the basics... remove electrons for front drive, and add electrons for lockers... isn't much easier than that.... and if all else fail, suck!
WRONG!!! These applications require the can of compressed smoke! Along with the nozzle to get the smoke back into the wires...
Double Wrong! Smoke doesn't exist in a vacuum... but the front drive does engage with the manufacture smoke... lockers disengage with it... its Pinztrity
I just hate it when one of you Lever Pumper Thumpers argue with us Switch Flippers!
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The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Ahh yes it will be a whole new world when I get the 718 on the road Dave.....I hope I don't get thoroughly confused and push when I should pull
I also have to make sure I have "canned vacuum", "canned pressure" and "canned smoke" in the toolkits ...... I've just got to get the right can in the right vehicle.
Howdy Peter,
Not sure what you need the Canned Pressure in a 718 for..? doesn't have the air suspension the 716 needs it for.
The FDT doesn't use any of the Canned Vacuum but the confusing item is 2 different cans of smoke are needed...do you know if they injected a different odor or color for the 12v smoke or 24v? Sure would make it easier to service if I could tell by smell.
But, that wouldn't work... it randomly exhausts gases... very disgusting, blows up cloud of dust. I was thinking it might have been its diet.. but don't feed it beans
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The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Just bought a 1974 710K pinz and am starting to work on it. I have 2 related questions. First should the 4x4/front wheel drive lever work with the same resistance as the 2 locker levers? And the second question is a little more involved. I was driving and came to a stop and could not get out of gear ( it seamed like the clutch was not going all the way to the floor) the only way I could get it out of gear was to shut it down. And than to move it I had to put it in gear and start it. I was able to get home in 1st gear (about 1/2 mile) now I can not get it to move at all. I can feel it going into gear, but no movement. HELP
On the 710/12s, front drive / lockers are the same type hydraulic systems, and be no difference in "feel"/ operation.
On the clutch, it could be a leak / failure of the hydraulic or a piece of the clutch disc (or some other foreign material) might have come off and is loose within the flywheel/pressure plate area, causing a drag. Do a search , this topic has been covered many times before.
Also, put your location into your profile. On many issues, climate , altitude and general driving codition affect vehicles differently. and repairs accordingly...
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The Trojan Horse... the 1st Pinz used to covertly carry troops into battle .
ATL Pinzgauer XM 718K TUM(HD) 6x6 FFR (aka The Green Grail)
Ah yes, all warranty claims are now being addressed by your mothers brother Robert. 
Let me tell you, it's no fun picking up vacuum on a trail and sticking it back in the lines 
