Locker Lever Replacement

[John L]

Guys:

In following up with an earlier post, I busted the base of the middle locker lever and the connecting piece that actuates the piston to lock in the rear diff. I've attached photos. I searched the site for information on how to go about the replacement and didn't find much. I did see the post about upgrading the replacement by using a through bolt on the extra holes on the back of the lever and connecting it to the actuator portion. But, I am not positive about how to get the actuator portion disconnected from cast metal piece that runs along the shaft that the levers rotate on. It appears to be riveted in place. Also, I see what appears to be a bolt head on either end of this shaft (passenger and drivers side on the outside of the 4x4 lever and the front diff lever).

Any information on the steps to follow when doing the replacement would be appreciated.

Thanks,

John

[Profpinz]

I generally find it easiest to pull the complete unit out of the dash a little so access is better.....there is generally enough slack in the metal hydraulic lines to do this but be careful not to crack or damage them.

There are a few ways of dissassembling the lever assembly so the offending part can be replaced. I understand some people remove the Clevis pins on the bottom of the levers and leave the shafts in place but I personally find this a fiddly way of doing things.
I prefer to remove the complete lever assembly then dissamble the shaft, however if you are unfamiliar with working on such parts maybe you could try this method first.

To dissassemble the unit take out the two bolts on either end of the shaft and remove the shaft assembly ....If you do remove the assembly complete, the shafts that run inside the boots will pop out. Sometimes the boots come too....you can sort all that out when you put it all back together.
The pistons inside the master-cylinders are trapped by circlips so pulling the lever assembly will not cause the pistons to fly out

Once the assembly is removed, the levers etc can be slid off the shaft and replaced as necessary.

[John L]

Guys:

You've inspired me. Just so the record is clear, I am not a mechanic. I grew up in a family that didn't have a mechanically inclined bone in their bodies. I would take things apart to try and learn how they went together, but have only learned enough mechanic stuff to be dangerous. At the mention of a "hydraulic system" my eyes would glaze over as if I was listening to a conversation in latin. But you all caught my attention about doing things right; so I've read up and done as much research as possible and think I'm ready for the challenge.

I haven't ever flushed a brake line, much less a hydraulic line, but after doing some research, reading posts, and watching a few videos I'm going to tackle changing out the T and elbows on the hydraulic locker and flush the entire system and THEN fix the broken lever. So, she should be good as new when I'm done. I have the lever parts and ordered the T, Elbows and two bleeder valves (just in case).

Two, hopefully, simple questions: 1) What fluid do I use to replace what's in the system? I saw DOT 3 mentioned, and I assume the brake fluid. But, wanted to confirm. 2) while I'm at it should I attempt a locker rebuild kit? I've seen them at SAV and EI. I see a number of parts that I don't have a clue what they are. I see how they go in based on drawings, but am shying away from trying to "fix" something that may not be broken.

Thoughts would be appreciated.

John

[krick3tt]

It will be a lot easier to replace the lever if you are going to also replace the rubber fittings. Did you also get clamps?
Take out the whole lever assembly and remove and replace the bad one. Remember the direction it goes, don't put it in
facing the wrong way. Did that...
I used the Dot 3 stuff. Same for everything, that way no issues trying to remember what goes in that hole vs this hole.
Good that you also got the little valves, they are sort of fragile and I break things...just a quirk I have.

Also be good if you could borrow a mechanical bleeder like the one EI used to sell. Makes for a one person job.

This will give you a chance to clean out the area and get some of the Alps out of there.

[John L]

Thanks for the tip. I plan to use one of the mechanical bleeders. The clamps... couldn't find those. What specifically are they called? Any chance of re-using the ones I have or should I order replacements?

[krick3tt]

Look up SAV and check this CLAMP 7101282331/ 07-15-58 1.44
Under parts go to locker levers and see the drawing, then it is the last on the list.

[edzz]

Yes Dot 3 is brake fluid.