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Hi,

When pulling the front diff, I neglected to release the slave cylinder. As per the pics, I destroyed what I suspect is called a "banjo bolt". Please verify if you can.....small end goes into the witches hat, large end into the slave....

I found it pictured in my parts manual, but not sure what Austrian for "Banjo" is.....

tx Dave

I believe that's the "thrust" bolt, seen here as #11: http://www.pinzgauer.com/parts.php?cat= ... view=03-20

Doesn't look like a banjo.

A banjo bolt, for example, is used when connecting a brake line to the break resevoir on a motorcycle.

undysworld wrote:I believe that's the "thrust" bolt, seen here as #11: http://www.pinzgauer.com/parts.php?cat= ... view=03-20

That's the one, thanks. I've got the pic, but had no clue what to call it. Thrust bolt it is!

berger wrote:Doesn't look like a banjo.

A banjo bolt, for example, is used when connecting a brake line to the break resevoir on a motorcycle.

Thanks Berger, now I know what a Banjo bolt is too.....early morning edumacationization.........

Banjo bolts are also used to connect the fuel line to the carburetors in a Pinz. They are called "Banjo" because of the round hoop at the end, like a Banjo.

Jimm391730 wrote:Banjo bolts are also used to connect the fuel line to the carburetors in a Pinz. They are called "Banjo" because of the round hoop at the end, like a Banjo.

Makes sense. I haven't been to a Bluegrass festival in years, so wasn't visualizing banjo properly....

stiffler4444 wrote:

Jimm391730 wrote:Banjo bolts are also used to connect the fuel line to the carburetors in a Pinz. They are called "Banjo" because of the round hoop at the end, like a Banjo.

Makes sense. I haven't been to a Bluegrass festival in years, so wasn't visualizing banjo properly....

There was a lot of "banjo playin" at the 4x4 event I was just at.....if ya know what I mean!

I bet, there is usually a strong showing...

Anyone know torque spec for the banjo bolts on the master and slave cylinder of the lockers?

Also, it seems the 2 copper crush washers on either side of the bolt seem to be of different size, at least different part number on SAV. Master and slave cylinder. One of them seem to not be available. Is it possible to just use any copper crush washer that fits?

I've never seen a torque spec for Banjo's. Fittings that use copper crush are
typically by feel -- you can actually feel the copper "give" and reach a limit.
It's not a heck of a lot of force.

Yes,the washers are different size. You have a few choices for replacement.

Get a metric kit off Amazon (or Harbor Freight) of assorted copper crush washers.
A good set of sizes likely will have the one you need. And while your at it pick
up a good digital caliper and measure the ID, OD, and thickness for proper
replacement.

The last resort but not a bad one is to anneal the old washer. With a propane torch,
heat the old one just to the glowing yellow point, let cool to ambient temp. That
takes the work induced harness out so you can reuse. Give it a clenaing with some
Scotch-brite.

It took a lot of force to remove the banjobolts, I had to use an impact wrench which made it quite easy to remove.

Rebuilt the locker cylinders and put them back together. Works fine now but it is leaking somewhere, either from the banjo bolt connection or the steel brake line connection. I tried tightening it as tight as I could for both nut. It is hard to tighten them in position but I had to do it that way to ensure the angle is just right for the banjo to the steel lines connection. Am I doing something wrong here? I dont not believe I stripped or cross thread the lines.
Used new copper washers too.

Isolate where it's leaking, Banjo or Hydraulic fitting. then you know where
more force may be needed -- to state the obvious. The hydraulic fittings
at time take a bit as you are reseating steel seat on to a flared tubing. It's
always a judgement call what's too much force. I use a tubing wrench on
these rather than a open ended wrench. Banjo's can be a PITA sometimes.
I the washers are now crush hardened and you just can't get it to stop leaking
you might have to do it over again with new washers.

I did try using a flare nut wrench but they are just too long to use within the space it is in. I may have to buy a claw foot wrench with the flare nut opening for this.
Can we use silicone tape or similar to prevent leaks like that?

Nope on the tape, won't seal around the tubing and tape won't hold the pressure.
That's why these are formed metal on metal seats.

The space in there is one heck of a knuckle scrapper.