Wheel Bearing failure/ Seal Replacement

Diffs, axles, lockers, transmissions, portals, that kind of thing.
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by berger »

pcolette wrote:I found it interesting that 3 of your 5 retainer bolts were allen socket head vs hex head. When I ordered them from SAV recently for a repair/upgrade it showed all 5 were hex head and that's what I got. I wonder why a previous owner/mechanic would have used socket head - any thoughts?
Interesting....could it be that sourcing the hardened bolts in a socket head was harder? Which is the original? I picked up some 12.9 as the replacements.

Replacement bolts...
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by berger »

Anyone have a trick to removing that snap ring?? I do not have access to a ratchet ring plier set like Scot uses in the video, so the rings keep snapping back on me.


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undysworld
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by undysworld »

IIRC, a LONG right-angle needle nosed pliers and a screwdriver... None of my snap-ring pullers were big enough.
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by berger »

Thanks Paul. Eventually got them out. I decided to replace the 6308 bearings while I have it apart, so that will delay the repair somewhat.

After removing the retaining ring, I used a piece of PVC I had laying around to remove the bearing. I am not a fan of removing a bearing using the inner race, but since EI did it.... :D . It didn't take much and I used a rubber mallet.


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Now to remove the seal. I used a flat head screw driver to knock it out from inside, then pulled it out.
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I am now just cleaning everything up in prep for reassembly....once I get some new bearings.

By the way, ever wonder where that weep hole on the back plate originates?
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by berger »

Not much more I can do today, but I decided to install the spacer/wear rings and o-rings. My PVC came in handy again.
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The rings are not completely flush with the base, no matter the pounding. I did see Scott's install had a similar gap. Should these be flush? Don't be shy, jump in if you know! :D

Mine (both are the same). Seems necessary to remove using the chisel...
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EI:
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undysworld
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by undysworld »

The rings are not completely flush with the base, no matter the pounding.
I assume there's a bit of space to allow the o-ring below it to compress some.

The weep hole is there to allow gear lube that may get by the seal to get out of the brake area without contaminating the brake parts. So sayeth pcolette per Willy at SAV...
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by berger »

Thanks again Paul!


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TechMOGogy
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by TechMOGogy »

Great posts!
I may thank you one day when I need it!
72 Pathfinder | 75 710M 2.7i | 96 350GDT Worker
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totaljoint
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by totaljoint »

I like your work bench......looks,like a tailgate party! :D
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djw
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by djw »

undysworld wrote: The weep hole is there to allow gear lube that may get by the seal to get out of the brake area without contaminating the brake parts. So sayeth pcolette per Willy at SAV...
Interesting, I did not know about the weep hole.

Not to detract from your bearing repair thread but does the weep hole mitigate this concern? viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7110

Always something to learn in this forum.
'74 710K (ÖBH Austrian Rehab) mostly unmolested original - the unicorn (everything works!)
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by berger »

djw wrote:
undysworld wrote: The weep hole is there to allow gear lube that may get by the seal to get out of the brake area without contaminating the brake parts. So sayeth pcolette per Willy at SAV...
Interesting, I did not know about the weep hole.

Not to detract from your bearing repair thread but does the weep hole mitigate this concern? viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7110

Always something to learn in this forum.
I don't think so. Let's say the hole is clogged, and mine was VERY gungy (I had to run that straw through multiple times to clean it), the synthetic oil will migrate somewhere.
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure/ Seal Replacement

Post by berger »

Well, I got my bearings today. I want to get this repair over with and yes, I should have bought my bearings earlier, I just wasn't planning on replacing them. I went with some NTN 6308C3 bearings. I paid $49 each...and then found out they were half that in Toronto. Again, I want to get this job over with, so I paid more to avoid shipping etc.

My plan is to freeze the bearings and drop them in place.
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berger
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure/ Seal Replacement

Post by berger »

So, I placed the bearings in the freezer for a few hours this afternoon, and installed them this evening. I placed the steel ring in the bottom and lightly tapped the bearing down using a brass punch (only using the outer race.
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I pressed in the seal, but I may have jumped the gun.
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I placed the snap ring in, but it won't slip into the groove fully. When I inserted the bearing, it felt like it went all the way...different feel to the tapping, but I am not certain. The snap ring is just a hair high....

Hopefully I can press it in further.


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Re: Wheel Bearing failure noise

Post by undysworld »

djw wrote:Interesting, I did not know about the weep hole.

Not to detract from your bearing repair thread but does the weep hole mitigate this concern? viewtopic.php?f=13&t=7110
As I understand it, yes. Assuming the weep hole is NOT filled up with debris, and assuming the seal fails, then the fluid would exit through the weep hole and be evident on the rear of the wheel drive (thus prompting repair) instead of destroying the lining on the brake shoes.
EmbarkChief
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Re: Wheel Bearing failure/ Seal Replacement

Post by EmbarkChief »

This is a great post and I really appreciate the OP taking the extra time to document this repair. This thread will be a fantastic reference when my time comes! :mrgreen:
-1972 710M
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