berger wrote:My plan is to freeze the bearings and drop them in place.
IIRC, the manual specifies to heat the housing up, but freezing the bearing may do the same thing.
That snap ring should fit okay. I'd check for full insertion of the bearing, even if you have to pull the seal. I wonder if the AM bearings are slightly bigger than the original/s? You could measure the old one and compare.
berger wrote:Can you recommend a way to pull the seal without damaging it?
Not really. Sorry.
Can you maybe slide a feeler gauge up in there and possibly probe the situation? It'd be a shame to waste the seal, but you probably really want that snap ring in place.
Well, the ring is in!!! I forgot how tough it was removing the snap ring (Scott makes it look so easy with that ratchet tool of his.... ) and how I had to kind of pry it out with a flat screw driver while I used the needle pliers. So, once seated, I used a small punch and lightly tapped the ring into place. No real effort, but more than my fingers could do.
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Based on my earlier pics, I think I am okay. The new ring is the 55mm whereas the old one was 60mm. If the plate goes in any further, it will rub on the seal. I can also tell, based on the shaft splines and where they flare out above the bearing, that I am at the same place the previous plate and bearing sat.
Well, the other hub is identical now, so back on the truck they go!
Drives are now back on truck. I put the gears and retaining caps in the oven and let it warm up to 350DEG. They were in about 25 minutes total. Using oven mits, I dropped them right onto the splined hub without issue. The caps too.
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I used the new hardened 12.9 socket head bolts with locktite, torqued to spec.
I used "The Right Stuff" gasket maker, as recommended by sdp-Pinzgauer.org, and ran a bead around the flange and bolt holes.
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All done but the brake install and bleeding.
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All back together and survived a test drive. So far no leaks!!
I know this repair took me some time, but it wasn't urgent. I think that if I was to do this again, a Saturday would be enough, assuming you have all the right tools.
Getting ready to do the exact same thing on the rearmost axle in my 712. Your thread with pictures and info is going to be handy!
I have read a little about the upgrade to the bolts and the reason for doing it. I still have the tabs in this axle and the stock bolts, looks like they have never been off and are bent onto the bolts heads from the factory. I could be wrong but they definitely show signs when you take them off. I removed them on one side already. These locking washer tabs are no longer available. I was thinking about re-using them and using locktight also. Are there any issues with this or should I just upgrade to grade 12 allen heads and locktight those?
Nomad wrote:Getting ready to do the exact same thing on the rearmost axle in my 712. Your thread with pictures and info is going to be handy!
I have read a little about the upgrade to the bolts and the reason for doing it. I still have the tabs in this axle and the stock bolts, looks like they have never been off and are bent onto the bolts heads from the factory. I could be wrong but they definitely show signs when you take them off. I removed them on one side already. These locking washer tabs are no longer available. I was thinking about re-using them and using locktight also. Are there any issues with this or should I just upgrade to grade 12 allen heads and locktight those?
Cheers
I think the upgrade is the hex head actually, but I could be wrong. Not sure why the different heads would make a difference, especially when using locktite, so I just replaced what was already there. I wouldn't bother with the lock tabs, personally, especially if they will be re-bent into position. Metal is slightly fatigued and could be a problem.
