THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

If you have the ability to do this kind of work...you can just make a truck out of scraps. That is great.

krick3tt wrote:If you have the ability to do this kind of work...you can just make a truck out of scraps. That is great.

Unfortunately, I can only pay to someone who will do this kind of work!

Clever to do that to the coil spring locating pin. If done right I see no reason why it wouldn't be a good upgrade.

Cheers

I don’t know if it’s good or bad, just made me think back to the Land Rover I had in the ‘70,s. The rear axle was known to be a weak link in the drive train; it was usually the first thing to break. My understanding is that it was designed to break before something major and was very easy to replace.

In the case of the Pinzgauer I haven’t heard of a lot of properly installed / maintained hubs slipping.

Just my thoughts, I look forward to seeing what the experts have to say.

I also need to think about the weak point in the transmission which will be broken in the first, but it seems odd that this is happening with the destruction of the axle's body! It will be better to make a lighter locking bolt so that it whould be cut off in case of overloading without destroying the body!

By the way, here is my off-roading using of Pinz:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHTQT-ESn60
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VwAduaIGGuI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVVqzYy3Kcw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42H5bvrKrjc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jyy6q_N4 ... e=youtu.be

I don't want to think that this is too much for Pinz

Crazy stuff.. I think I would have had to change my undies...

Have you ever rolled it yet?

After looking at your video I can plainly see your tires are too tall . If they exceed 34"(86.36CM) they will contact the body under articulation, especially the fronts while turning. The lack of locktite on the mating surface is also a factor.
The Red Bull truck tires were too tall, they rubbed on the body going over a large rock, when they caught they bent the pins and sheered the housings on the rt front and the rt center, I had a hand in the 5 1/2 hr recovery and resulting repairs.

compunerdy wrote:Crazy stuff.. I think I would have had to change my undies...

Have you ever rolled it yet?

Thank God i don't roll yet, but felt on the side a couple of times!

Jim LaGuardia wrote:After looking at your video I can plainly see your tires are too tall . If they exceed 34"(86.36CM) they will contact the body under articulation, especially the fronts while turning. The lack of locktite on the mating surface is also a factor.
The Red Bull truck tires were too tall, they rubbed on the body going over a large rock, when they caught they bent the pins and sheered the housings on the rt front and the rt center, I had a hand in the 5 1/2 hr recovery and resulting repairs.

Yes you are right my tires are 36" ...and they really have contact the body in several places, later i'll post fotos! But I'm not sure that these contacts can lead to such serious damage, because these touch only slow down the rotation of the wheels, or am I wrong? And they have contact only in front, but the problem which i have is on the rear axle too!

Although of course the fact that the wheels touch the body is not very good!

I'm going to put new springs from a diesel version, new shock absorbers, and possibly will make a new bolt for spring cup as i posted before to lift the front suspension! Perhaps then the wheel will no longer touch the body! Thank you for your opinion!

By the way I use Trail Master shock absorbers! Does anyone use those? I use them a few years, are pretty good for me, but the truth is I did not use the others!

Instead of new pins, new springs, lifts and mods - what about new, smaller tires?

He probably needs them after looking at the videos..

How about some bump stops..

audiocontr wrote:Instead of new pins, new springs, lifts and mods - what about new, smaller tires?

Generally the tires are much more expensive than the springs and shock absorbers .. so I'll change them when they will be worn out..
And one more... no one has explained how the contact with the body leads to the destruction of the axle!

compunerdy wrote:He probably needs them after looking at the videos..

How about some bump stops..

Are there examples of installation? And what is the purpose? Do not allow the suspension to work in the upper direction?

I will try to keep it simple, when the tire hits the body especially locked and under shock load it causes that tire to abruptly stop with power still being supplied to the small drive gear on the axle. This turns the small gear(upper drive axle gear) into a high torque Sun gear and the larger drive gear(lower gear) into a Planetary gear causing the housing to break and rotate.
Look at the parts manual or repair manual images/cutaway views.
When you go back together coat the entire stub mating surface with blue locktite or equivalent.
You may also have to repair the pin locating hole area on the diff stub shaft, file away any raised areas and fit new pin end into hole before assembly to assure good fit

Jim LaGuardia wrote:I will try to keep it simple, when the tire hits the body especially locked and under shock load it causes that tire to abruptly stop with power still being supplied to the small drive gear on the axle. This turns the small gear(upper drive axle gear) into a high torque Sun gear and the larger drive gear(lower gear) into a Planetary gear causing the housing to break and rotate.
Look at the parts manual or repair manual images/cutaway views.
When you go back together coat the entire stub mating surface with blue locktite or equivalent.
You may also have to repair the pin locating hole area on the diff stub shaft, file away any raised areas and fit new pin end into hole before assembly to assure good fit

Thank you for explaining your position, but i still don't understand what is the difference between braking wheel by touching the body and any by touching any other obstacle on the road like a big stone for example?