replacing differential

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blackstack
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replacing differential

Post by blackstack »

Anyone ever swapped out a differential breaking the drive train between the differential and the transfer box? any reason not to do it like that or do you have to make the split forward of the transfer box?
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Haf-e
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Re: replacing differential

Post by Haf-e »

I don't think you can pull the rear diff without pulling the t-case as well - there are some bolts (I think) that attach the t-case to the diff that can only be accessed with the t-case off the central tube. Its been a number of years since I've done it - but that is what I seem to remember.

Also - this would be a good opportunity to service the bearing on the rear "witches hat" that supports the main driveshaft inside of the tube. They take a beating... you could perhaps get a lightened driveshaft to swap out with yours while you are in there - Expedition Imports used to offer this as an option (i.e. send them your old one back after the swap). Worth considering...
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blackstack
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Re: replacing differential

Post by blackstack »

thanks for the info...already did the drive-shaft swap a couple of years ago. I think I found all the attaching bolts between the diffy and the T case....4 long acorn headed, 2 regular bolts and 2 shorter acorn headed.....just stalling till I hear from someone who remembers exactly why or why not....
undysworld
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Re: replacing differential

Post by undysworld »

Pretty sure that's true about the through bolts. When I did my 712, the xfer case came out with the rear axles. Even if it could be separated under the truck, it would be a lot more difficult than after pulling it.

I believe you'll need to find/build a cradle to hold the axle/case when you pull it. With a 712, it just rolls out on all 4.
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Haf-e
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Re: replacing differential

Post by Haf-e »

You don't need a cradle on the 710 versions for the rear diff removal - just leave the wheels on and grab the tail / trailer hitch and pull - as it rolls backwards the differential will slowly drop as the tires move outward - not too scary actually - nothing happens fast. When the t-case in still on a 710 rear assembly it is counter-balanced by the rear tail cone / parking brake assembly - so its pretty well balanced actually.

The real trick is figuring out how to jack up the truck and still allow the rear diff/axle/wheels/t-case to roll back and not hit what you are using to support the body of the truck.
Haf-e

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undysworld
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Re: replacing differential

Post by undysworld »

I used a crane to support the weight of the rear of the truck. Only having removed the rear of a 712, I cannot comment on Haf-e's suggestion of rolling the 710 rear axle backwards.

It would seem awkward to me, and that's a fair amount of upwardly offset weight involved to balance, but it must have worked for him.
blackstack
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Re: replacing differential

Post by blackstack »

Hello Ha Fe,

Can I infer from your last post that you have taken out the diffy without the t case attached ? I have the truck supported from a gallows and can raise lower it a bit as necessity dictates.

i participated once in rolling out the whole thing from front of T case back but don't want to do that if not necessary
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Haf-e
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Re: replacing differential

Post by Haf-e »

Nope - I've only pulled the whole rear assembly - twice - including the T-case. Again - I think there are a couple of "hidden" bolts which hold the T-case to the differential that can only be removed with the T-case pulled. Sorry if I confused you somehow.

Again - if I was going that deep into my pinz I would want to check the front bearing on the witches hat and probably replace it as a preventative maintenance measure as I've had it fail twice in my 14 years of owning my pinzgauer - but used to do a lot of high speed long distance driving prior to the balanced driveshaft option.
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Jim LaGuardia
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Re: replacing differential

Post by Jim LaGuardia »

You can leave the t case in place if you're only doing a diff repair, just remove the rear diff with the distance piece(spacer). Pull the through bolts out where you can, or forwards exiting the spacer, it will save time and ease re assembly this way.
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Haf-e
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Re: replacing differential

Post by Haf-e »

Shows you what I remember...
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blackstack
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Re: replacing differential

Post by blackstack »

Thanks Jim and HaFe......Jim (and i know i am risking being the subject of devastating sarcasm) could you rephrase the part where you say "or forwards exiting the spacer"? I can't understand what you mean...is what you are calling the spacer the crossmember ?
Last edited by blackstack on Wed May 14, 2014 11:12 am, edited 2 times in total.
blackstack
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Re: replacing differential

Post by blackstack »

Thanks Jim and HaFe......Jim (and i know i am risking being the subject of devastating sarcasm) could you rephrase the part where you say "or forwards exiting the spacer"? I can't understand what you mean
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Haf-e
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Re: replacing differential

Post by Haf-e »

I think the spacer is an aluminum piece between the t-case and the differential and is about 6 inches long? By crossmember, do you mean the welded plate steel part which has the two body mounts on it? That normally comes off with the entire rear assembly - but if you are pulling just the diff then maybe it can stay on?

I think he meant that the "bolts" which attach the t-case/spacer/diff together are actually rods - so you can pull off the nut at either end - so pull out any that you can completely out the rear and then if there are some you can't get to (like on top of the diff perhaps) then just pull those forward out of the diff and spacer to allow them to be removed...
blackstack
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Re: replacing differential

Post by blackstack »

looks to me like the "spacer" is forward of the crosspiece (the piece with the body mounts)....i am going to unbolt and slowly pull aft by rolling the wheels and seeing where separation occurs...of it doesn't look right re-bolt and then take the whole train out... thanks again for the input HaFe i need a second brain !! lol
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