Can the Clutch Slave cylinder be installed backwards?

[Texas710]

I have been wanting to bleed my clutch and had some time to investigate that today.

Took off the doghouse and following the clutch line, I think I located the slave cylinder but what I think would be the the bleeder valve is pointed towards the engine, and there is no valve there...? The picture is somewhat obstructed because of a shadow but I think you can make out where the bleeder valve would be screwed into. Feels like it has broken off to me.

Hopefully the pic helps. The big white thing at the top is the oil filter.

The only thing I can think of, is that it is installed the wrong way. Is that even possible, and can I just flip this around if that is the case? Assuming that I can remove the broken nipple and get a new one. Would I need any seals/gaskets.

Thanks

[Texas710]

Little better lighting, you can see the orientation of the valve.

Looking through the parts manual and some older post, it looks like these can be removed for cleaning without leaking much, or even removing lines.

The plan is to remove the nuts holding it on, then rotate 180 deg and bolt it all back. Hopefully not even removing the housing. Plan on doing this today, if any issues I should look out for, let me know.

Thanks

[krick3tt]

I replaced my slave cylinder and that requires removing the hydraulic hose and bleeding the system. If you are just turning it 180 there will be enough play in the hose so that you do not have to remove it. If the bleed valve is broken you should replace it and that will require bleeding the system. If your reservoir has two white caps on the top DO NOT REMOVE THEM take off the center silver cap to refill the reservoir.
There is a 4 inch rod in there to push against the innards of the clutch ... don't let it fall out when you take the cylinder off.
If the bleed valve does not have a cover (little black rubber thing) put one on to keep debris out of the valve. That goes for all the bleed valves on the vehicle, these can be obtained at almost any auto parts store...you really need to do this.
If any of your other valves are questionable, remember they are a very easily broken metal and it would be a good idea to have a few on hand to replace them as they break off when loosening them for bleeding the various systems. They don't cost much and the expense will be well worth it. Call SAV for them or one of the sponsors for the site.

[Texas710]

For those that are curious. It is indeed possible to install the slave 180 degrees off, with apparently no change in clutch performance... Other than making it impossible to bleed...

I swapped it around so the bleed valve would not be facing the engine. But, there is a broken valve in there. I am going to order replacements asap and try to get that one out. Any thoughts or previous experience about extracting a broken bleeder valve?

Krick3tt, thanks for the help, it was easier than I was imagining and didn't even spill any fluid. Except when I learned the fuel hose doesn't have a clamp on it where it exits the tank... But what a little spilled gas between friends. I will order the parts, going to need the inner rubber boot as well, mine has a small tear in it.

I just keep telling myself that I wanted a project, right?

[krick3tt]

OK, so the valve is broken. If it is close to the body of the piece it goes into all the better. I used an extractor similar to what is used to remove broken bolts ( don't know the tech term) but the nice part is the valve doesn't have to be drilled like a bolt as it already has a hole to put the extractor into. Back it out, and put in the new one. Ezy pzy.

[Texas710]

Sounds good, I was out looking for a bleeder valve that would fit, but I could not find a M6x1.00 at the local auto parts place.

I'll order Monday and then start messing with this when the parts come in.

[edzz]

OK, so the valve is broken. If it is close to the body of the piece it goes into all the better. I used an extractor similar to what is used to remove broken bolts ( don't know the tech term) but the nice part is the valve doesn't have to be drilled like a bolt as it already has a hole to put the extractor into. Back it out, and put in the new one. Ezy pzy.

At the tool store ask for an "EZ Out", hint they come in many sizes.

[Stekay]

Having multiple types, I've personally had much better success with the straight flute type, but they are not common to find.

[Texas710]

I have never seen the flute type. I have the ez outs but have been having more success with speed outs. They have a bit on one end and the extractor on the other. But it does depend on the situation/material. Hell, a sharp flat head screwdriver with a hammer has done the trick for me.

Having a background in older motorcycles has taught me to be careful with bolts and things, but sometimes stuff happens. I won't be doing this until the parts come in, as it's holding fluid now.

[Texas710]

Okay, parts came in. Easy Peazy might not be the best description...

I tried every damn ez-out I had, but they just kept stripping the metal without backing out the valve. Ended up removing the slave and hose, putting it in a vice, and using the sharp screwdriver/hammer method to remove it, that's some soft metal.

I found a slave rebuild kit in my spare from the PO, so I think it was something he planned on doing. Cleaned everything (housing looked perfect), put the new rubbers on, new bleeder valve and bolted it up. Used my power bleeder to bleed the system (much easier if you are hooked up to the clutch reservoir not the brakes BTW! ), Fluid was clear, no bubbles, I assume all the air is out.

Had a weird issue with too much pedal travel before engagement, but after not messing with the truck today, it seems to have resolved itself. I guess I'm chalking it up to new parts and too much pumping when I was working on it. I'll probably bleed it again to make sure no air, but at least this issue is resolved.

Thanks everyone.

[eToothpaste]

I replaced my clutch slave on Putz (as my brother affectionately named it after a 2 hour ride in the back in the rain) a few months ago and saw the same strange pedal issue for a few days, then it just went away. Hasn't reappeared, so I wrote it in the maintenance log and moved on.