Rear diff light won't come on

kdiqq · Post by **kdiqq** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 8:41 am

Jimm,

That's what it seems like. I got back there, removed the slave cylinder and pushed the rod by hand (with a 2x4 actually) and got it flush with the housing but it still wasn't locking the rear wheels. I turned them while holding the rod down and it still didn't do anything.

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undysworld · Post by **undysworld** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 8:55 am

Did it help any to flush the line and bleed it? Or didn't you try this yet? If, as Paul C suggested, the line is filled with OLD sluggish brake fluid, then it's quite possible to be the culprit. To me, the fact that it's even partially engaging suggests that the locker is doing what it can, but for some reason it's not getting fully moved.

Just like it's sort of a waste of time tracking an inop locker indicator lamp until after you've verified that the locker mechanism is truly functioning, so too is futzing with the locker mechanism until after you've verified that the fluid in the lines is actually moving. If the fluid won't flow, then the locker won't lock.

Remove the panel above the levers, use a turkey baster to suck out the reservoir of old fluid, fill it up with fresh stuff, and then bleed the lines out.

Many of us have experienced a locker that won't lock at one time or another, and most of the time it's cured by flushing the hydraulics.

krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 10:18 am

It is also a good to have on hand a few of the bleed valves. Those little things are a very fragile metal and can break off if not able to be loosened properly to bleed the lines.
They get clogged with debris if they are not capped with the little rubber caps. Those can be sourced at a local auto parts store as they are used almost universally for brake bleed valves. Get the valves from EI or SAV.

Really sucks to be part way through your bleed and have one break off...if that happens you are left wanting.

Yes I've done that.

Just a thought ... use your own turkey baster not the one from the kitchen.

kdiqq · Post by **kdiqq** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 11:00 am

Well I'm currently out visiting my parents. I have all my tools and everything but not my service manual. Can anyone detail the bleeding procedure? I mostly need to know I the bleeder valve needs to be closed when I return the handle. On cars, I can usually just crack the valves and pump away. But on my bikes, I have to open the valve, push the brake down, close the valve, return the pedal, open the valve, repeat. Which way is best on this bad boy?

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kdiqq · Post by **kdiqq** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 11:01 am

Also, thanks again for the outflow of support. Pinz owners are the best!

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krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 11:15 am

Oh yeah, one more thing. If the locker lever does not return to closed position...DO NOT PUMP IT. The metal to connect them all to the shaft is also fragile and strong pressure will crack it. But, there are more available for about $50 each.

...and again, yes I've done that.

undysworld · Post by **undysworld** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 12:21 pm

krick3tt wrote:Oh yeah, one more thing. If the locker lever does not return to closed position...DO NOT PUMP IT. The metal to connect them all to the shaft is also fragile and strong pressure will crack it. But, there are more available for about $50 each.

...and again, yes I've done that.

He's right. What happens is that if the fluid you pushed into the lines does not return to the master, then the master will intake more fluid from the reservoir and hydrolock. (This happens sometimes with gunk in the lines, or if the locker mechanism does not unlock when you raise the lever, esp. due to gears binding.) Pushing harder only breaks the lever.

Depressing the lever is akin to pushing down the brake pedal when you bleed a brake system.

To bleed them, I depress the lever, then go to the back and open the bleeder. The spring mechanism in the locker seems usually to force the fluid out. Allow any fluid to escape, then close the bleeder. Go back to the cab, raise the lever (now that master intakes fresh fluid from the reservoir), and then depress the lever again, then repeat. Keep doing this until you get fresh brake fluid coming out. Remember to keep the reservoir filled while you bleed it, just like when bleeding a brake system. This is all easier with a second guy in the cab, but it can be done by ones self.

krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 2:19 pm

I have a power bleeder that I got from SAV so the running back and forth is eliminated and I just put the little hose in the bottle and wait till all the bubbles stop and the fluid runs clear with no junk in it...then go to the next one in the line.
I got the bleeder years ago when I had to do everything myself and had no help. That was when I had a MOG and it works fine for the pinz.

Texas710 · Post by **Texas710** » Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:04 pm

Power bleeder is the way to go. Use it for the pinz and my bikes.

Make sure the rubber pieces (elbows and Tees) under the levers are okay and not cracked, this was the first thing I had to replace when I got my truck.

kdiqq · Post by **kdiqq** » Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:49 am

My elbows and T's are dry rotting. I noticed that when I was swapping bulbs. I found the part on SAV, but not the clamp. Does the clamp come with it?

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krick3tt · Post by **krick3tt** » Sun Sep 20, 2015 10:13 am

Don't recall getting the clamps with them. You may have to order separately. I reused the old clamps, only the rubber was bad.

undysworld · Post by **undysworld** » Sun Sep 20, 2015 11:34 am

Install the old "clamps" onto the new rubber, then push the fittings into the rubber. It requires some force often.

63rover · Post by **63rover** » Sun Sep 20, 2015 12:02 pm

By the way:

"Just a thought ... use your own turkey baster not the one from the kitchen."

Don't worry! Brake fluid is water soluble. Just put it in the dish washer. Works for getting the kerosene off cleaned parts too but I did learn from watching my father that the results are better (quieter) if you empty the dishwasher before your wife returns from choir practice.

kdiqq · Post by **kdiqq** » Sun Sep 20, 2015 6:47 pm

Alright, so the rear locker is FULL of fresh fluid.

I bled the system till clean and nothing changed.

Then I removed the slave, popped the piston, cleaned it and then replaced the piston, rebled, and tried again.

Now the lever feel is more resistant and very sluggish. It does not pop back and requires a little extra force to get down. I did notice the spring shaft that the slave pushes on is EXTREMELY rusty. I can move it easy enough with my hands (takes some force, but not an inappropriate amount) but I think this is what I will try replacing next...

I'm not sure where to go next!

kdiqq · Post by **kdiqq** » Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:18 pm

Problem solved! Pushrod was way too rusty. I swapped it with the front diff assembly and like magic, the front stopped working and the rear worked beautifully

No throwing money needlessly. I love when diagnosis go well!

THE PORTAL HUB - Pinzgauers, Haflingers, Volvo 303s and more!

Rear diff light won't come on

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