So the light switch clearly has a stop that appears to be able to clicked over to move the switch to positions "S1"..."S2"...etc. Book tells you to use the ignition key to push the center of the switch and toggle the stop over. Seems straight forward. But mine will not move over and I don't want to muscle it as these are expensive. The lock tab does jiggle "technical term" so it would seem that it can move over. My question is...is there supposed to be a spring loaded pin on the top of the lever that you are supposed to depress with the tip of your ignition key to unlock the select able side tab to allow access to the "SX" positions? Or are you just to depress the whole lever down, which is sprung loaded and can be moved down about 1/8" or so and it springs back. If there is supposed to be a center pin that is to be moved, then mine is fully depressed and seized in the down position.
If someone has one that allows them to toggle the lock over... How are you doing that and if it is the center pin as I suspect...could you take a closeup pic of that pin and link it here....
Masked Light switch question...
Re: Masked Light switch question...
I'm not near my Pinz right now but as I recall you push the center pin (orange arrow) in with a pointed object and while holding it in, you slide the "bar" to the left (blue arrow). The ignition key is supposed to have a suitable point on it but many have worn off.
Paul C.
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'73 Swiss 710M SOLD
'89 Puch 230GE
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'73 Swiss 710M SOLD
'89 Puch 230GE
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Re: Masked Light switch question...
That's what I though....and looking at your pic it appears that the pin is flush with the top of the switch lever when at it's normal state...mine is fully depressed. I suspected mine was seized from corrosion in the down state. I put a drop of kroil in the depression so hopefully I can get that unstuck. Thanks
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Re: Masked Light switch question...
So...mine was a real PITA to get working, and it sounds very similar to your situation.
That center pin needs to move freely up and down -- mine didn't. I was able to tap it with a pin punch and lots of lubricant to get it to move, and luckily I got it into a state where there was the tiniest bit of in/out freeplay. From there I just did *lots* of cycles in/out until it moved freely. I was, like you, completely afraid of damaging it.
Of course the rectangular slide was also sticky, but that one was much easier.
Probably took me 1-2h to get the thing worked free.
That center pin needs to move freely up and down -- mine didn't. I was able to tap it with a pin punch and lots of lubricant to get it to move, and luckily I got it into a state where there was the tiniest bit of in/out freeplay. From there I just did *lots* of cycles in/out until it moved freely. I was, like you, completely afraid of damaging it.
Of course the rectangular slide was also sticky, but that one was much easier.
Probably took me 1-2h to get the thing worked free.
710K
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Re: Masked Light switch question...
So a bit of follow up... Needed to rebuild the complete pedal assembly and while I'm at it install new gauges fix electrical items...etc. So the light switch...why would mine not work... Well upon working on it while it was out of the vehicle...discovered previous owner attempted to superglue the pin fully down so you could flip it easily without any tools. Jeez... This is why mine didn't appear to have a pin...it was just filled with glue. So took the switch fully apart and cleaned it and rebuilt it to new condition. Works as it should now...
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Re: Masked Light switch question...
So....I once heard a rumor that the supergluing was intentional to prevent the operation of the blackout lights.
710K