Coil Again

Dedicated to the memory and knowledge shared by Jim Mettler - All things relating to the flow of electrons in a Pinz.
Erik712m
Posts: 1553
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:52 pm
Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by Erik712m »

pinztrek wrote:Lot's of good questions, skip if not interested!


Alan


( "You like apples how do like them apples")

My two brain cells hurt.

Sds has two or three pages on Increasing Spark Intensity at the 9k and 10k rpm range. To bad it doesn't relate or I'd go Matt Damon on this post!!
:lol: :lol:

1) All of the above changes a bit with resistor plugs, and or resistor wires. The normal bosch ignition can handle one or the other, but not both. Bosch platinums pretty much come only in resistor form, and there are zillions of posting of folks who badmouth bosch platinums. What it really is that they are using resistor plugs with resistor wires, and the normal coil just is not hot enough. Use one or the other! Modern cars go super high voltage to allow both resistor plugs & wires for interference reasons. Also idle emissions, etc.
Little lost are you talking about the Spark plug wire? If so how does one tell the Difference?
Erik712m
Posts: 1553
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:52 pm
Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by Erik712m »

Never mind Found the info. http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/truth.htm

Guess I never new there were so many variables.

You know I joined an off road club to learn more about mechanics. And would have to say there is more info here than what I have a filling I will learn at the club.
pinztrek
Barbados
Posts: 131
Joined: Mon Aug 01, 2005 9:27 pm
Location: Atlanta Area
Contact:

Post by pinztrek »

You can ohm the wires. Solids should be 1-2 ohms or so. Resistor will be 7-15k, depending on length & mfg.

On MB's they were marked, and it was a factory spec. That's how I learned that normal coils were not hot enough for resistor plugs & wires. One or the other.

Pre-EFI I ran blue coil, civvy resistor wires, and plain plugs and it worked great. A zillion beetles & porche's can't be wrong!

With Hi voltage coils it's a different situation. Distributorless EFI systems should have no problems running both. And it will help with noise back into the system.

Magnacore's page is pretty accurate, and they are a good choice if you are looking for performance and low noise.

For what it's worth, the stock pinz military wires fall under the "capacitive effect", and what they are describing there is what makes shielded wires fail sooner.

Regarding SDS's 9-10k rpm point, did you not get their RPM doubler kit?

Have fun,

Alan
Erik712m
Posts: 1553
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:52 pm
Location: Wichita, Kansas

Post by Erik712m »

Not sure if you remember not to long ago I was having problems with the sds check engine light coming on. The sds manual Pointed out as well as others. That it might be plug wires manual stated change spark plug wires. So I did and the problem went away. So I thought a couple of drives later light came back on again it suggested that the gap was incorrect on the spark plug or to change the wires. So I rechecked the gap on the spark plugs. And drove it for a while. Later found it was a couple of little things.

When you brought up that there were different types of wires. To be honest I didn't know. I just figured they for the most part were all the same. Take one off put another one of the same length and ends.
pinzinator
Posts: 917
Joined: Thu Jul 29, 2004 3:12 pm
Location: Indio, California

Post by pinzinator »

I measured the voltage at the load side screw terminal on the device that feeds into the distributor, while idling, and got 21.4 volts (the engine will stop immediately if you short this screw). The alternator output voltage at the Molex connector was 28.2. Are these the readings one should expect? The Pinz runs fine and has a stock ignition system for the most part, except for Pertronix with solid core wires and NGK resistor plugs- BPR6ES. The plugs burn clean.
Post Reply