Dissy Cap

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 3:36 pm

Hi Scott thanks for your reply the problem im having is the caps are getting hairline cracks across the terminals inside. Showing black lines and tracking across two cylinders.

The inside of the cap is wet damp with water or condensation in the cap.

Its not the fixing down to the dist thats causing the cracks

Would welcome your views.

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:51 am

A basic question as preamble!
In your judgment is this crack a structural crack OR one created by HT tracking/erosion?
Dennis

Erik712m · Post by **Erik712m** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:46 am

You removed at least a eight inch off the rotor before install right?

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 1:53 pm

Hi Denns and Erik
Its a tracking problem. The petronix was fitted before I bought the Pinz and I have done a lot of work on the carbs etc and changed to the civilian kit spark plugs, leads with the cap conversion from Dale in Scotland Haflinger Technik.

Yes I removed a section off the bottom of the rotor arm as this had not been done before. I have measured the distance from the base of the cap to centre electrode against the top of the rotor and the top of the dist and I have a small gap for the spark to jump. Is this correct ? This is my 2nd cap thats gone this way and its only happens after a long journey 150/300 miles.
The terminals inside the cap turn slightly green. I have this week just installed a bosch blue coil and it seems to run better. I dont know what to do next the Pinz starts and runs well

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 2:46 pm

Check the obvious first, i.e. Ignition voltage.
When voltage regulators malfunction or balast resistors are wired wrong(very common), too much voltage will create problems with coil life or performance.
Look for battery voltage while cranking and 17-19v while running.

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 3:04 pm

Thanks Jim I will try that in the morning

Steve

lindenengineering · Post by **lindenengineering** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 4:57 pm

Just to add my five cents worth.
What colour of the cap black or orangie/brown?

The reasons why I ask are two fold.
1) There are a lot of aftermarket diz caps floating around out there made in all sorts of places, incl China. Often the quality is questionable and a decent spark will erode the plastic or find a fissure to track down! Also the pick up pins can be cast out of whack in the plastic and the firing can be "off" in some drastic cases, this will also cause tracking in some cases.
2) Also you should be using a cap from a Super Beetle or such like.
The "SB" was uprated in HT spark and primary voltage from about 1972/74 onwards and the cap to use is a genuine Bosch---Theses days made in Brazil or Mexico. You might even in the UK find one made in "Gearmany"! I wouldn't bother with India, I have a few rough ones supplied. On the box or cap should be "producto do brasil" or "Hecho en Mexico". In short whats on yours?
Dennis

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 8:52 am

Hi Jim I checked the voltage at battery its 25v engine running its 28v

At the coil ign on its 9.9v on one side and 1v on the other side which goes to the dist
When running its 17.2 to 18.4 on one side and 11 to 12.5 on the other which goes to the dist.

Dennis Both dist caps have been brown Bosch caps part number 1235522056

Regards Steve

edzz · Post by **edzz** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 4:45 pm

HOOPS PINZ wrote:Hi Jim I checked the voltage at battery its 25v engine running its 28v

At the coil ign on its 9.9v on one side and 1v on the other side which goes to the dist
When running its 17.2 to 18.4 on one side and 11 to 12.5 on the other which goes to the dist.

Dennis Both dist caps have been brown Bosch caps part number 1235522056

Regards Steve

Are you saying you have “At the coil ign on its 9.9v on one side and 1v on the other side which goes to the dist” with the ignition switched off?

Ed

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:53 pm

Hi Ed
No thats with the ign switched on. I assume if I remove the dissy cap and turn the rotor it would or should go up to 24v ?

Steve

chacaocop1 · Post by **chacaocop1** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 3:32 pm

Advance Disclosure: I am not a mechanic, so Jim or Dennis' opinion should be more trusted than mine....

My understanding from comments I have heard from some Pinzgauer mechanics (not Dennis or Jim), is that the original pinzgauer distributor has some sort of mechanism that allows the moisture to be eliminated through a thin hose away from it. The conversion sold by some other Pinzgauer part dealers does not have that mechanism, causing moisture to be kept inside the cap, and as a consequence the hairline crakcs will show due to the spark routing via the most conductive place (the water in this case).

I can be corrected if I am wrong, but that can be the reason for your problem.

But on the other hand, I have the conversion in my truck and do not experience that problem at all.

We all "convert" to save money on the spark plugs, 37 bucks vs. 1 buck makes a HUGE difference for me when multiplied X 4...

Can any mechanic share his opinion on this?

Reminder: I am not a mechanic, so Jim or Dennis' opinion should be more trusted than mine....

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:18 pm

Dennis / Jim

any more ideas about my problem

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 4:33 pm

Re-attach your vac line, and use anerobic sealer(not silicone) where the cap mounts to the adaptor plate.
Unfortunately moist climates (especially with salt air) can complicate matters where electronics are used.
Also make sure the vents on the bottom of the distributor housing are not obstructed and always make sure the engine reaches operating temps to evaporate any moisture. Driving short distances where operating temps are not peaked will also result in moisture build up in the crank case.
There is nothing else to add that I can think of right now.

HOOPS PINZ · Post by **HOOPS PINZ** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 11:13 am

Hi Jim

Thanks for your help as it happens I live on the coast with the sea being a 5 min walk away. I do a few short journeys but its the long ones when I travel that causes me the problems.

I have tried using hylomar blue sealer on the adator plate but that made no difference.
Where are the vents on the dist and will I need to take the dist out to check them ?

Steve

Jim LaGuardia · Post by **Jim LaGuardia** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:37 pm

The vents are on the bottom of the dist housing, you can see them with a small mirror. I have seen 1 truck that had a desicant bag wrapped around the dist base, as well as a couple trucks with VW rubber dist cap covers.
Owners reported fair to good results.