The SAV locker light replacement units are well designed and easy to install BUT, I can't tell if I wired them wrong (likely) or several of the units are defective (possible). As with just about anything I touch that's related to electrical items, they all worked before I embarked on this project.
If anyone has installed these previously and had problems getting them all to light up when the lockers were engaged, please drop me a line and let me know what I'm doing wrong.
Thanks!
SAV replacement locker dash lights - slight problem
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SAV replacement locker dash lights - slight problem
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OK, so the folks at SAV say that they've never had a problem with their locker light switches so I'm cool with that. I ordered the three replacement valve/switches and my shop replaced two of them (we'll go ahead and replace the third one as I'm sure SAV has a no return of electrical items policy as well they should)
So here's the problem, the lockers work fine and we've replaced two (and soon to be three) valve/switches but now the locker lights only work intermittently.
They worked fine at the beginning of the process but the lenses were broken that's why I began this project.
Do I just live with this or will the replacement of the third valve/switch help cure this intermittent light issue or....how do I diagnose why all of the locker lights won't come on?
As Yul Brynner said in "The King and I"...it is a puzzlement!
So here's the problem, the lockers work fine and we've replaced two (and soon to be three) valve/switches but now the locker lights only work intermittently.
They worked fine at the beginning of the process but the lenses were broken that's why I began this project.
Do I just live with this or will the replacement of the third valve/switch help cure this intermittent light issue or....how do I diagnose why all of the locker lights won't come on?
As Yul Brynner said in "The King and I"...it is a puzzlement!
Looking for next new (for me) toy
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
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1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
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I have been pondering this fault of yours in the Denver traffic and thoughts on responding with a suitable not too complicated reply/suggestions.
For a preamble you have ostensibly three areas to tackle to eradicate the flickering. As Jim has mentioned there is a continual supply of a positive 24v signal to one side of the bulb. Having passed through the filament it runs down the wire to the unit mounted switch and waits for the switch to be influenced by the hydro-mechanical operation of the locker mechanism to close the contacts and "ground switch" the system to make the light come on. Any intermediate break in the circuit or poor contact will result in flickering!
I am assuminmg you have installed some LED lamps where once dwelt the original lamps????
These are generally polarity concious so the correct connection is paramount for them to work.
For a practical test I suggest you remove each locker cover over the switch to expose the wires, then "jumper" the main supply wire to ground and see if each and all of the lights illuminate when the ign is switched on. If they do then go thrash the truck around the block to see if the bulbs flicker, If they do its all up stream so you can investigate the supply from the ign and bulbs areas
Now the mechanical bit. Remember the continuity relies on good switching of the plunger switch screwed in the case. A common overlooked point is that the captive alum washer on the switch gets left in the case recess and another washer is added to the replacement which has the effect of shimming it out and casing a bad contact
Equally the tail wire from the switch to the spade connector (ground) in the cover must have good continuity to make the ground and light the light
So if you are sure the switch is properly "seated" connect the power supply to one side of the switch and jumper the other to a known ground.Then apply each of the lockers in turn ensuring proper engagement and the lights should all light up when the ign is on.At this point you should have been able to trace the fault except for the hydro part. Any internal leakage or lack of fluid/air in the system might only be partially appling the locker mechanism, so purging and a bleed of the system plus function test is essential to ensure it is all working.
Hope that helps
Dennis
For a preamble you have ostensibly three areas to tackle to eradicate the flickering. As Jim has mentioned there is a continual supply of a positive 24v signal to one side of the bulb. Having passed through the filament it runs down the wire to the unit mounted switch and waits for the switch to be influenced by the hydro-mechanical operation of the locker mechanism to close the contacts and "ground switch" the system to make the light come on. Any intermediate break in the circuit or poor contact will result in flickering!
I am assuminmg you have installed some LED lamps where once dwelt the original lamps????
These are generally polarity concious so the correct connection is paramount for them to work.
For a practical test I suggest you remove each locker cover over the switch to expose the wires, then "jumper" the main supply wire to ground and see if each and all of the lights illuminate when the ign is switched on. If they do then go thrash the truck around the block to see if the bulbs flicker, If they do its all up stream so you can investigate the supply from the ign and bulbs areas
Now the mechanical bit. Remember the continuity relies on good switching of the plunger switch screwed in the case. A common overlooked point is that the captive alum washer on the switch gets left in the case recess and another washer is added to the replacement which has the effect of shimming it out and casing a bad contact
Equally the tail wire from the switch to the spade connector (ground) in the cover must have good continuity to make the ground and light the light
So if you are sure the switch is properly "seated" connect the power supply to one side of the switch and jumper the other to a known ground.Then apply each of the lockers in turn ensuring proper engagement and the lights should all light up when the ign is on.At this point you should have been able to trace the fault except for the hydro part. Any internal leakage or lack of fluid/air in the system might only be partially appling the locker mechanism, so purging and a bleed of the system plus function test is essential to ensure it is all working.
Hope that helps
Dennis
OOOps no customer bashing now
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Dennis,
Thanks for considering a number of potentially interrelated issues and options us us to evaluate.
David
Thanks for considering a number of potentially interrelated issues and options us us to evaluate.
David
Looking for next new (for me) toy
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
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The connectors on the backside of the SAV replacement LED switches are a bit "diminutive". With the connections made more secure, we've cured the flickering light issue.
Looking for next new (for me) toy
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
1974 712M - sold
1973 710M - sold
https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id ... 3094951494
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