Symptom of a bad starter?

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roadrash
Posts: 25
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:03 am
Location: New Hampshire

Symptom of a bad starter?

Post by roadrash »

Good Morning All.....

I've tried searching the archives but havent seen a 100% similar problem or description of starting problems, so I'm hoping that someone more familiar with this may be able to point me in the right direction.

My initial guess is a dead spot but having never run into a starter problem I am not sure if thats an accurate description.

Twin Optima red tops, test ok at 24.90 V
Ground strap is good.

Turn the key to the on possition and hit the starter... Every once in a while there is a clunk (sounds like the starter gear moving out to grab the flywheel and then, Nothing). no whirling, no grinding, its almost like a complete loss of electrical power. Release try again.... sometimes it will happen again, most times it will kick it over.

Almost NEVER happens when cold.... Not sure if its related to the hot/restart problem though.... I've got that issue as well lately. After the truck has been run, its NOT wanting to kick back over but that seems to be a more common issue.

Any ideas on what to try, test?
Thanks
Dave
1973 710K
The Ark
spandit
Posts: 660
Joined: Tue May 18, 2010 5:15 am
Location: East Sussex

Post by spandit »

Had the exact same thing - I put it down to a dirty commutator or something (dead spot sounds about right). Don't know how easy it is to access to clean. Can the brush packs be replaced easily?
--

Robin

Pinzgauer 710K
MegaJolt ignition
(upgrading to MicroSquirt)
roadrash
Posts: 25
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:03 am
Location: New Hampshire

Post by roadrash »

Good question... As far as i can tell, the starter would have to be removed in one piece (probably after gas tank is removed) in order to access the two round slotted ports... Assuming the brushes are behind those. Brushes would be a much cheaper fix :-)

thank you for the reply.
1973 710K
The Ark
Jim LaGuardia
United States of America
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Post by Jim LaGuardia »

Hold on there green horn and get out the service manual :shock:
Starter replacement/repair is fairly simple and does NOT require gas tank removal :D
Remove the dipstick tube to access starter removal :roll:

Brushes are easily replaced, but it is most likely a solonoid issue or bad (loose)connection.
If you are uneasy about repairing it, then buy a rebuilt unit from E.I. or SAV. :wink:
Cheers, Jim LaGuardia
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"Arch Magus of Machines."
Profpinz
Australia
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Post by Profpinz »

As Jim said removal of the starter is simple.
Recently I had to pull the starter a few times (long story, but it harks back to my full 12 volt conversion) and it was out and back in, quick-smart!
Peter

1974, 712 6X6 Pinzgauer
1983, 710-1.6 4X4 Pinzgauer
1997, 718 6X6 Pinzgauer (in pieces)
1971, 700 Haflinger
1974, 703 LWB Haflinger
2001, Range Rover

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Pinzgauer Pete
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Post by Pinzgauer Pete »

Dollars to donuts...what you will probably find that this is merely a poor ground connection and nothing more.
life is like a box of chocolates...you never know which one you might get

710M
roadrash
Posts: 25
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:03 am
Location: New Hampshire

Post by roadrash »

Thanks for all the suggestions... I knew those with more knowlege would shine the way. As soon as I have some time to dedicate to the work I'll update everyone on what I find.
1973 710K
The Ark
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