Back Up Light and Driving Lights

[John L]

I want to install a back up light and some driving lights up top on the front. The Hella work light is very affordable, but I'm worried about amp draw. I have been looking at some LED's that only draw a couple of amps. Does anyone have any experience in this field? I had another offroad vehicle with some nice Baja lights up top. Left the truck running while checking a field and within minutes, the lights drained the battery as the alternator couldn't keep up. So, I learned about amp draw the hard way. I don't want to make the same mistake.

Also, when hooking up the back up light I read about using the plug next to the hazard flasher. Do you just tap into the plug and the switch above it controls the electrical? Or do I need to hook up another switch?

Thanks for the assistance.

John

[edzz]

http://www.expedition-imports.com/produ ... gauer.html

[krick3tt]

I installed a B/U light that serves as a work light. Switch on panel near heater control under wiper motor.
Not connected to transmission...totally manual.

http://s400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88 ... MG3350.jpg

http://s400.photobucket.com/albums/pp88 ... MG3346.jpg

[John L]

Couple of questions if you guys don't mind.

I have purchased and instaled an LED back up/spreader light for the back of my 710. (Really using it as a flood light but it makes her legal if called a backup light ) I fabricated and welded a steel tab on the back on the passenger side and mounted the light. (It was primed and painted before the light was mounted.) Now, I need to run electrical. I was thinking of running it in the side frame rail (there are plugs at the back and under the front floor for removal) and running the wire up to the passenger floor board; run it under the floor plate and into/under the dash.

1) Good idea or bad? If bad, any better suggestions; and
2) Should I obtain power from breaker #7? I read on this forum that was a good one to use.

I purchased an original pull switch for the job and also purschased a 24 volt relay. The relay came without any wiring instructions, but does have a diagram on it. (I can post a pic if needed.)

3) Should I use the relay? If so, does it matter where it is mounted (front or back)? and Any idea on which wires go where on the relay? It is a standard 24 v relay from SAV.

I have a plugged spot on the dash which will be perfect for the switch. I just want to make sure I get her hooked up properly.

Again, thanks for the help and input. I'll share photos once completed.

John

PS Why does work seem to get in the way of fun!!!!

[Tyler]

Well then. Heres something im great at! I to wanted my reverse lights to be dual purpose as well, both worklights and reverse lights. I used led floods, @ 180 lumens each, and used the EXISTING wiring that already goes to the back of the truck. This particicular circuit is for the blackout light feature of the truck, which is only used if your rig actually has blackout lighting. Its easy to repurpose this circuit. Most 710's dont have it functional upon purchase. Ive actually found 2 unused wire paths that go to the rear from the factory. The wire you are looking for if you want to do it this way is at the light switch (on the dash) on the #3 terminal if i remember correctly. Its bright, bright orange. Youll have to remove it, cut off the ring terminal, leaving you with a bare wire. Take that wire to wherever your switch is, and in my case i took power from the large red wire on the light switch itself. I fused the lights, and used a 2 way 24 volt switch. Basically i ran a heavy gauge wire from the ignition switch main power, to my 2 way switch. From there i ran my rear lights off the switch in the "down" position, and in the "up" position it powers my front driving lights, which by the way are wired in series so as to equal 24 volts. I do not recommend taking power from the light switch, but part of my job is 12 and 24 volt accessories. Lets say im confident in my calculations and the current draw/load ive placed on the existing light circuits. For anything more in the future, i will add a 24 volt accessory panel, but for my 2 most essential light requirements, the ignition power is more than enough, and with the fact that 24 volts is far more efficient than 12 volt...the factory power wire is of a substantial gauge to handle the temporary load ill place on it. My system works fantastic, and though there are many ways to do this, im very happy with mine. Minimal extra wiring, simple, effective, and very easy to repair in the field if necessary. Hope this helps, and best of luck!
Tyler