Quick Wiring Question: Radio Box behind seat

[John L]

Hey Guys:

I have installed a back up/spreader light that I need to run power to. Morris was kind enough to send me photos of his install and he inspired me to install a fuse block so that I can run additional items if I need to in the future.

So, here's the plan, I want to install the fuse block behind the passenger seat next to the radio plug. I purchased from SAV (don't worry EI, I just got my master cylinder from you which is a project to follow this one) the radio plug so that I can obtain power from the plug to run the fuse block. Of course the plug came with no instructions.

Here are my questions for those of you who have done this:
1) I will run either 4 or 6 gauge wire from the plug to the block. What type of connector do I need in order to connect the wire to the plug? Looking at it all I see is two female indentions for the wires to go into. Is there a special connector I need or do I merely sauter the wires to the plug?

2) Are one of the pins positive and the other negative? If so, how do I tell which is which? I think there is an A and a B on the plug.

3) Does the fuse block need to be seperately grounded or is hooking up the ground from the radio plug enough (assuming one of the wires is a ground)? I could easily ground it where the radio plug is grounded if need be.

I'm hoping to tackle this project this weekend and will be happy to provide photos of the work as it progresses. Any help would be appreciated.

John

[StuartL]

You need to solder the wires into the indentations on the connector. You'll need a decent soldering iron, too, since there's a lot of metal to heat up in large gauge wiring.

I can't remember which way round the positive/negative are, a voltmeter will tell you. One pin is definitely ground, the other is definitely 24v (or 12v on a 12v truck).

The ground in the radio socket is actually just bolted to the chassis, the radio plug only has a wire back for the positive lead. You can take your ground from the socket or from another part of the chassis.

[psychoman]

Basically - wot he said!

I wired my 12 volt dropper off the radio plug - take the cover off and its obvious what's going on inside. I modified some normal commercial electric connections to slide into the receivers on the radio socket - easy job.

[krick3tt]

Taking the cover off the little box gives access for connections, but...
If you are going to use something on a temporary basis...use the plug that fits the radio socket.

http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... no=SAV1438

$20 from SAV

[westernair]

Taking the cover off the little box gives access for connections, but...
If you are going to use something on a temporary basis...use the plug that fits the radio socket.

http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... no=SAV1438

$20 from SAV

I just did this again on my new truck. Even if not temp I would recomend sodering on an OG plug. Cheap and easy to remove if ever needed.
I went to a 40 amp 12v inverter then to a 4 position fuse block

[PinzVair]

what kind of amperage is there to spare if the radio plug is used?

[StuartL]

It's direct to the battery, and the wire is pretty heavy gauge. It's nowhere near enough cross section for a winch but you're driven mostly by how much you value your battery voltage. I think I recall seeing somewhere that the alternator is good for 55A at the factory in ideal conditions. If you assume you want to draw some current for other features, like engine, lights etc, 10A doesn't seem like a reasonable cap. If you want to take more it's probably worth thinking about a second alternator.

[Jimm391730]

The stock alternator is rated at 35A. IIRC the connector behind the seat is good for 20A.

[John L]

Thanks for all the input. Here's what I've decided to do. I bought the plug from SAV and sautered the connections and am using 6 gauge wire. I should get the full juice from the plug. I've run the power from the radio plug (or am in the process) to a 12 circuit fuse block. The reason for 12 is it will always leave me with options for grabbing a quick and easy power supply. I don't envision using many of the accessories connected to it at the same time; so I shouldn't have any problems from a power supply standpoint.

I've run the wire in the frame chanell straight to the back where the light is installed. Upon completion I'll post pics of the project. I'll run the hot wire to switch installed on the dash and then back to the light. Obviously the light will be manually operated; but I'll be using it more as a flood light than a backup light.

The fuse block is mounted behind the seat which will provide easy access in the future for other accessories.

I keep sneaking moments in to work on her and am having to do it in phases. As soon as I get her operational, Ill post pics so you guys can see what it looks like put together.

Thanks again for the help!

John