24->12 inverter wiring

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Stekay
United States of America
Posts: 346
Joined: Thu Sep 01, 2011 8:32 pm
Location: Long Island, New York

Re: 24->12 inverter wiring

Post by Stekay »

Yeah, I'm with you on the going with Jim's opinion. I'll wait for the electron master to chime in with a definitive answer. Your idea of the relay activated ground sound bullet proof.
'76 710K
krick3tt
Posts: 2457
Joined: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:48 pm
Location: Denver, CO USA

Re: 24->12 inverter wiring

Post by krick3tt »

My equalizer is running through the negative side of the battery key switch so it only operates when the battery key is inserted.
It works that way so I can operate my ARB cooler while camping, with the engine off. I have been camping for days running off
the 24V plug, as it draws less amps on 24V than 12. I do start the pinz every day to see that the things does start.
The equalizer is to operate 12V items in the pinz like the radio and the GPS, etc.
I also have an aux battery powered off a solar panel if I am out for more than two days. Been doing it this way for years.
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
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Jimm391730
United States of America
Posts: 1456
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 10:58 pm
Location: Idyllwild, CA

Re: 24->12 inverter wiring

Post by Jimm391730 »

There are some equalizers that can pull power from just one of the 12V batteries and boost it to equalize the other battery; or these types can be used to input 24 and get 12V out or input 12V and get 24V out. These types will require at least two of the three connections broken to prevent draining the batteries when not in use. For this case, a DPST relay (with two independent sets of contacts) could be used to disconnect two of the three equalizer leads, disabling it, when the battery key is disconnected. In my opinion this would be the most preferred way to hook it up; it would be running when the battery key is turned on.

Personally, I'd rather just use a "simple" 24 to 12V converter for the few 12V loads that can't be easily found in a 24V version. High power loads like accessory lighting and winches are best kept at 24V, simplifying most everything. Then only the relatively low power 12V devices can be easily run from a converter. Since the truck batteries see only 24V loads (including the converter) there is no issue with getting them out of balance. Never getting them out of balance is better than thinking/hoping/praying that an equalizer is working properly for you. If the converter was to die, I'd loose my tire pressure monitoring and radio, nothing that I couldn't live without, anyway.
Jim M.
712W and 710M
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