im lost here! please help...

waterdog · Post by **waterdog** » Sat Apr 19, 2014 10:48 am

I know i should have +- 17 volts at the coil,(i have 19v) is this at low RPM, and should not raise at high RPM??? Cause mine rises to almost 24volts... Coil not hot,original coil,drove the truck 2 hours yesterday city driving after messing with the molex connector, but give me not confidence to go out of town,,help me find a real culprit.!!!!

waterdog · Post by **waterdog** » Wed May 14, 2014 2:34 pm

Since last time, i look at the molex connector really close and found a cable that was a bit suspiciuos! Repaired, and the truck has been running since that day!!! I dont want to believe that molex was the problem again.!!!!

Pinz710m2 · Post by **Pinz710m2** » Wed May 14, 2014 4:08 pm

Just a quick question ...

When you have the Pinz running, and you turn the battery cutoff
key to the off position, does the truck continue running? Or does it
quit?

edzz · Post by **edzz** » Wed May 14, 2014 5:19 pm

Pinz710m2 wrote:Just a quick question ...

When you have the Pinz running, and you turn the battery cutoff
key to the off position, does the truck continue running? Or does it
quit?

I would not turn the battery cut-off switch to the off position with the motor running.

If you really want to do that test your relay first. Much less expensive than the damage that may result if you find out the hard way that the relay that is intended to maintain the circuit is bad.

For a procedure to test the relay look here. http://madscientisthut.com/sdp-pin/html ... relay.html

The rest of the old sdp site can be found here. http://madscientisthut.com/sdp-pin/html/site_map.html

waterdog · Post by **waterdog** » Wed May 14, 2014 5:49 pm

never tried that before!! i read about the relay and stuff....what would i accomplished by doing that???

Jimm391730 · Post by **Jimm391730** » Wed May 14, 2014 5:58 pm

The battery switch does not stop the engine from running; if everything is well, the alternator would keep supplying electricity to the coil and the engine should keep running if you disconnect the battery switch.

---BUT---

The battery needs to be in the alternator circuit to give the alternator something to "work" into. Disconnecting the batteries while the engine is running is a BAD THING. So the Steyr engineers did a good thing, the added the relay to bridge the battery switch in the off chance that some idiot turns it off while running (probably more like if the battery switch fails open while the truck is running, since no idiot should be allowed to operate the truck

). In other words, if everything is operating correctly then it is impossible to open the battery switch while running since the relay effectively keeps the current flowing around the open switch. But if things are not working as expected then bad things will happen as Edzz and Jurgen have described.

Pinz710m2 · Post by **Pinz710m2** » Wed May 14, 2014 6:15 pm

Pretty much what Jimm described.

Turning off the cutoff should have no effect ... if everything is
working properly. Just trying to narrow down what works, and
what doesn't.

Todd · Post by **Todd** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 4:05 pm

Ok here goes. I'm gonna show my ignorance again and ask what is the rectifier? Is that just the voltage regulator?

Pinz710m2 · Post by **Pinz710m2** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 6:59 pm

In the Pinzgauer alternator there are 3 diodes ... I think.
If someone referred to a rectifier, I think they were
probably referring to the bridge inside the alternator.
When you look at the alternator, there are three round
"Dots" on a half-circle looking thing.

In what reference did someone tell you about a rectifier?

( you electrical engineers feel free to jump in here )

Todd · Post by **Todd** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 7:54 pm

Pinz710m2 · Post by **Pinz710m2** » Fri Jun 13, 2014 9:15 pm

Those are all relatively cheap parts. Voltage regulator, $38 at EI,
pertronix $106. If you think those are the problem, replace them
all just to be sure.

Oh, and just some friendly advice, if you think you're not really
100% sure of something, spring for a good mechanic to check
it out or even install it. Any time I'm in over my head, I have a local
mechanic who works for about $80 an hour (cheap) and he's happy to go
through and fine tune anything. It's all a perishable skill set. He's does
this stuff so often that he knows all the tricks and things that I might
not know. With this truck, I've done it a few times. He was really good
at getting my carbs fine tuned and I used him to actually install my pertronix
because he charged me the same amount I would have had to spend to
buy a timing light!

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