Fuses - which ones are which?
Fuses - which ones are which?
Okay ... after looking at the wiring diagram, I am now
more convinced than ever that I just can't see anything
smaller than 12 point type anymore. But besides my
eyes getting old, I keep confusing myself by trying to follow
the tiny lines.
My problem: I have no power in the outlet behind the passenger
and also no power in the auxiliary light outlet beside the emergency
flasher pull switch.
I've tested both with a voltmeter, off, with power on, and with vehicle
running. No change. So, of course, I'm looking for a bad fuse, but
I can't tell which one is which according to the diagrams in the repair
manual.
Does anyone have a list of the fuses and what they are for? (A search
in this forum didn't get any useful results)
more convinced than ever that I just can't see anything
smaller than 12 point type anymore. But besides my
eyes getting old, I keep confusing myself by trying to follow
the tiny lines.
My problem: I have no power in the outlet behind the passenger
and also no power in the auxiliary light outlet beside the emergency
flasher pull switch.
I've tested both with a voltmeter, off, with power on, and with vehicle
running. No change. So, of course, I'm looking for a bad fuse, but
I can't tell which one is which according to the diagrams in the repair
manual.
Does anyone have a list of the fuses and what they are for? (A search
in this forum didn't get any useful results)
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
There isn't a fuse on the power connector behind the passenger seat. It connects directly to the Positive starter lug as it is supposed to draw from the batteries.
The auxiliary 24v outlet next to the emergency flashers only has power when the pull switch above it is pulled out. I found it very easy to find the supply for it but can't remember exactly where at this moment.
The auxiliary 24v outlet next to the emergency flashers only has power when the pull switch above it is pulled out. I found it very easy to find the supply for it but can't remember exactly where at this moment.
Fat Fabrications
2993 FM 1647
Winnsboro, TX. 75494
fatfabrications@yahoo.com
(903) 365-2332 shop
(951) 765-7224 mobile
Facebook.com/dokapinz6x6
Www.fatfabrications.com
2993 FM 1647
Winnsboro, TX. 75494
fatfabrications@yahoo.com
(903) 365-2332 shop
(951) 765-7224 mobile
Facebook.com/dokapinz6x6
Www.fatfabrications.com
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
I wasn't looking for a fuse behind the seat. I'm not sure
if we're talking about the same thing. I'm looking for a
system fuse, probably one of the ones in the dash? I
assume that no circuit will be without some sort of protection.
Of course I tried the pull switch on the auxiliary outlet too.
I double checked my work light (which I had just put together)
and it's fine. (24V Hella H3 light, not LED so I'm not worried
about + or - being on the right contact) and I checked both
with a voltmeter in just about every combination of vehicle switch
positions that I could try. (main cutoff on, ignition on, engine running)
No juice. I'm sure there's a fuse on those somewhere. Unlikely
that both are broken.
if we're talking about the same thing. I'm looking for a
system fuse, probably one of the ones in the dash? I
assume that no circuit will be without some sort of protection.
Of course I tried the pull switch on the auxiliary outlet too.
I double checked my work light (which I had just put together)
and it's fine. (24V Hella H3 light, not LED so I'm not worried
about + or - being on the right contact) and I checked both
with a voltmeter in just about every combination of vehicle switch
positions that I could try. (main cutoff on, ignition on, engine running)
No juice. I'm sure there's a fuse on those somewhere. Unlikely
that both are broken.
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
Again. there is no fuse protection (not even on the dash)on the outlet behind the passenger seat. It receives its power directly from the starter post. The wires can be traced from the connecter to the starter post when you pull the engine cover off.
Fat Fabrications
2993 FM 1647
Winnsboro, TX. 75494
fatfabrications@yahoo.com
(903) 365-2332 shop
(951) 765-7224 mobile
Facebook.com/dokapinz6x6
Www.fatfabrications.com
2993 FM 1647
Winnsboro, TX. 75494
fatfabrications@yahoo.com
(903) 365-2332 shop
(951) 765-7224 mobile
Facebook.com/dokapinz6x6
Www.fatfabrications.com
-
- Posts: 244
- Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2013 12:47 pm
- Location: Houston, Texas
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
FWIW I had to manipulate the switch for the auxiliary a few times before it made contact and started working.
-1972 710M
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
Interesting. I think I'll track it back and put a
little in-line fuse on it, just to be sure I never melt it.
little in-line fuse on it, just to be sure I never melt it.
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
FOR ANYONE IN THE FUTURE WHO LOOKS UP THIS THREAD ---
It really wasn't worth the trouble to try and "fix" either the outlet behind
the driver's seat, or the outlet beside the flasher. I spent 2 days trying
to find out why these things didn't work and all I got was confused because
they are so simple, but just wouldn't work. (I'm assuming it was a broken wire,
corroded contact, or something like that)
The solutions were so freakin' easy I can't believe I spent so much time
trying to figure out why the old stuff didn't work.
SOLUTIONS:
I cut off the power (+) wire to the outlet behind the passenger seat. It took
about 10 minutes from start to finish to run a 12 gauge red wire from the
battery post, through an 8 amp in-line fuse, through the engine compartment
(the wire hides very nicely behind the back wall insulation if you insert it from
the top) and to the box. Like I said, total time to fix, 10 min. I just capped,
taped, and folded over the old wire and tied to the the harness. I'll remove it
when I put in the new starter.
The outlet on the left side of the dash is called a "Powerlet". It took about
15 minutes to remove the panel, replace the powerlet (for sale for $19.99
from Powerlet) and replace the panel. All I did was provide a wire for a ground
(the old one was self-grounding. The new one requires a wire) and grounded
it to the mounting screw on the plate.
It really wasn't worth the trouble to try and "fix" either the outlet behind
the driver's seat, or the outlet beside the flasher. I spent 2 days trying
to find out why these things didn't work and all I got was confused because
they are so simple, but just wouldn't work. (I'm assuming it was a broken wire,
corroded contact, or something like that)
The solutions were so freakin' easy I can't believe I spent so much time
trying to figure out why the old stuff didn't work.
SOLUTIONS:
I cut off the power (+) wire to the outlet behind the passenger seat. It took
about 10 minutes from start to finish to run a 12 gauge red wire from the
battery post, through an 8 amp in-line fuse, through the engine compartment
(the wire hides very nicely behind the back wall insulation if you insert it from
the top) and to the box. Like I said, total time to fix, 10 min. I just capped,
taped, and folded over the old wire and tied to the the harness. I'll remove it
when I put in the new starter.
The outlet on the left side of the dash is called a "Powerlet". It took about
15 minutes to remove the panel, replace the powerlet (for sale for $19.99
from Powerlet) and replace the panel. All I did was provide a wire for a ground
(the old one was self-grounding. The new one requires a wire) and grounded
it to the mounting screw on the plate.
-
- Posts: 1776
- Joined: Fri Apr 16, 2004 8:08 am
- Location: Blue Mounds, WI
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
Two days on an open circuit? Yikes. I'd think an multimeter would make short work of that.Pinz710m2 wrote: I spent 2 days trying to find out why these things didn't work and all I got was confused because they are so simple, but just wouldn't work. (I'm assuming it was a broken wire, corroded contact, or something like that)
That's one thing about a Pinz. Most fixes end up being simple ones.
- Jimm391730
- Posts: 1456
- Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 10:58 pm
- Location: Idyllwild, CA
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
Not everyone has the need for one of these, but I sure couldn't live without one for doing electrical work: http://easyautodiagnostics.com/tools_wi ... robe_1.php
Although I personally have the Fluke probe (not quite the same, but similar results). They are a real timesaver when doing vehicle electrical work.
Although I personally have the Fluke probe (not quite the same, but similar results). They are a real timesaver when doing vehicle electrical work.
Jim M.
712W and 710M
712W and 710M
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
Yes, underworld, I have a multimeter. It's a little frustrating
when you check the current at the source, then at the connection
and even at the outlet, and then you plug something in and it
doesn't work. So you check what you plugged in. (I used a
24 Volt work light) and it works. So you go backwards and test the
outlet, and the wires, and the source, and then you try to plug in
your light again, and it does't work. You scratch your head and go,
"WTF?" And you assume that you are doing something stupid and start
all over again. Leave, come back, try again. WTF? Leave, get dinner
come back and check everything again. It sounds stupid, but everything
would check out, and then it just wouldn't work.
I'm assuming that the patina on the old socket just wouldn't allow enough
proper contact with the surface of the plug. The outlet behind the seat, I
still have no idea why it would't work once I plugged a light in.
All I know is that when I wired them up with new wire and in the case
of the powerlet, a clean new powerlet, they both worked just fine.
when you check the current at the source, then at the connection
and even at the outlet, and then you plug something in and it
doesn't work. So you check what you plugged in. (I used a
24 Volt work light) and it works. So you go backwards and test the
outlet, and the wires, and the source, and then you try to plug in
your light again, and it does't work. You scratch your head and go,
"WTF?" And you assume that you are doing something stupid and start
all over again. Leave, come back, try again. WTF? Leave, get dinner
come back and check everything again. It sounds stupid, but everything
would check out, and then it just wouldn't work.
I'm assuming that the patina on the old socket just wouldn't allow enough
proper contact with the surface of the plug. The outlet behind the seat, I
still have no idea why it would't work once I plugged a light in.
All I know is that when I wired them up with new wire and in the case
of the powerlet, a clean new powerlet, they both worked just fine.
Re: Fuses - which ones are which?
Sometimes (with the power off) I can clean an outlet with a 'Q' tip and some denatured or rubbing alcohol. Be surprised what comes out on that 'Q' tip, may take several times to get it clean enough to make contact.
Worth a try rather than buying new stuff...as a last resort, replace the thing.
Don't have any MEK
Worth a try rather than buying new stuff...as a last resort, replace the thing.
Don't have any MEK
Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him:
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford
better take a closer look at the American Indian.---Henry Ford