How to create a 12 volt system from a 24 volt system?

[dadnova]

What is the proper way to create a 12 volt system out of the 24 volt system?
As hooking up to only 1 Battery is not the proper way, so would be the proper way?

Reason is here in the US the: Winch, Cigarette lighter for GPS and Phone charger and such, trailers, CB radios and such run off 12 volts.

So what would be the proper way to create a 12 volt system to tie these things into?

[compunerdy]

Pretty sure you can find all of those things or converters that run off 24v.

[dadnova]

That would mean the converter would have to be running all the time, correct?

Also a winch has large wires supplying the power to it as they draw allot of current, don't know or think a converter would handle this?
In my RV I have a converter to make 110 volts off the battery to charge the kids laptops and such, but it will not even run a grinder unless I hook it straight up to the battery.

[TechMOGogy]

Winch you will want to run at 24 volts (https://www.warn.com/industrial/severe_ ... inch.shtml)
GPS, chargers, radio etc can be run off of a 24v to 12v converter like this one: http://www.walcottcb.com/vr1a-voltage-r ... -p-53.html (just a Google example - there are tons and many better than this one!)
For a trailer it may be best and easiest to just get 24v bulbs - they will be dimmer but will still work.

[dadnova]

I already have a 10K winch that is 12 volts. The AMP draw is about 500 amps under large load, so a 24 to 12 volt converter would be in the thousands of dollars for this Amperage.
As far as the trailer lights, the problem is I have several trailers and a Boat that I will also be using back and forth with my truck 12 volt system.
I dont want to switch bulbs each and every time. The trailer brakes also run off 12 volts, I would think 24 volts would cause them to lock up, as they are designed for a 12 volt system.

[audiocontr]

Where are you located?


To be fair, there are several posts on this topic throughout the forum. Take advantage of the search functionality.

Winch - Do NOT run the winch off a single battery. Do NOT run the winch off a converter. You have a few options - 1) Use a separate fully charged 12v battery that you keep as a spare for emergency purposes. 2) You MAY be able to do some research and swap the solenoids from 12 to 24v. Speak with the manufacturer for the proper way. 3) Some daring individuals run a 12v winch on a 24v system. It drastically heats up so be careful! 4) Get a proper 24v winch for the 2 times its used a year =)


Everything else is powered from a 24-12v invertor. I have several different types, some are active (powered) while some are simply resistor based. I've come to love the simplicity and value of the resistor type invertors for my 12 v accessories. Keep in mind that you will need a switch, relay, or some feature built in that turns the device on and off. It draws a small amount constantly.

I have a used high amperage inverter if youre in the market. I think many of us have them laying around.


Many people use 24v bulbs in their trailer all the time and do not swap them out. Regular bulbs are a little dimmer on 12, but work well. The LED types work too. Youre correct that the trick is the electric braking, but they make devices to assist there as well.

[TechMOGogy]

Ok so you answered your own winch question
Sell what you have and buy a 24v or trade someone?
As for trailer - here is another option but no clue what kind of plugs you have: http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/index.php ... e585baf95f


Then if you have flat plugs:
http://tweetys.com/7pintype-4adapter.aspx


Not cheap but it makes the trailer lights all 12v

As for brakes your back to a converter:
Others: http://www.samlexamerica.com/products/P ... spx?pid=71

[Jimm391730]

Best answer: use only 24V accessories!

Next best answer: High power accessories should be 24V; low power can use a 24 to 12V converter (like radios, chargers, etc.). These converters can be had at up to 40A; one source that has worked well for me is http://ecatalog.astrodyne.com/usa/dc-co ... /SD500L-12 and is under $140. Jim L. and I have used several of the 27A versions for EFI and I have a 12A unit for radios, etc. The 40A unit can probably run your trailer brakes; while I'm not certain I doubt they draw that much.

Trailer lighting can be had in LED bulbs that can be powered by 12V or 24V without worry. For the occasional time I pull a trailer with the Pinz I have a set of magnetic tow lights with 24V bulbs (ordered them from NAPA) and the Pinz trailer hitch plug. I just stick these on the trailer bumper. There are other 24V to 12V trailer lighting converters at around $100 but I've not tried one yet.

[Garrycol]

I have a 24v Landrover 101 but have many 12v accessories and indeed the ignition which is full electronic also now is 12v.

With no winch involved there are two ways to provide power 12v power - first is to use an equaliser (very expensive) between the two batteries in the 24v battery pack and then take power from one of the batteries - this is the only way you can safely take power from one battery. The equaliser does exactly that - equalises the power between the two batteries so the one that is supplying 12v power is not being discharged greater than the other one. However the max amps these can provide is about 60 amps so not enough to equalise the batteries when a winch is being used.

The second way is to use a 24v - 12v converter - these are generally low amps so may not power everything.

If you bring in a winch then because of its power requirements it can only be powered from a battery which is recharged from the trucks systems. Now - my winch is the standard central mounted Nokken winch that is PTO driven but I do go camping a lot so have an auxiliary battery to run my fridge and camping equipment.

My current charging arrangement is via an auxiliary 65amp 12v alternator on the engine - this alternator only charges this battery which supplies all my 12v power and with the correct battery can provide power for a winch.

I also have a 24-12v 60amp Dc to Dc battery charger and I will replace the alternator in due course with this to charge the battery.

So with a 12v winch your only options are as I have described above.

If you are using your truck for camping and need power then stay with the 12v winch and get an auxuliary battery (an allrounder - starter and deep cycle combined)charged by a 24v to 12v battery charger rigged to work only with ignition on.

If you do not need aux power then sell the 12v winch and get a 24v winch and use 24v to 12v converters to power your other accessories.

Oh - just saw the issue of trailer lights - my camper and box trailer are all 12v. Here is Aust we have a 24v to 12v reducer for trailer connections. This sits in the cables between the 24v truck and the 12v trailer socket mounted on the rear of my truck. http://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads ... t-A5-2.pdf

I hope this helps

Garry

[63rover]

I have a different sol'n for this problem. My 710 has two 12 volt batteries connected in series to give 12 + 12 = 24v. Each battery has 2 + and 2 - posts and only one of each is needed to wire the circuit. The other posts can be wired in parallel to create a second circuit with 12v and twice the amperage. Treat it with respect! Amperage is what curls your hair or can even kill you! (2 batteries capable of 750 peak cranking amps each can put out 1500 in parallel! Beware and use fuses to protect your accessories.) I plan to set this up soon to power 12v accessories and possibly a winch, on heavy cables. The cost is minimal for wires fuses/breakers and a secondary box to mount it all into.

A different trailer lighting/wiring sol'n: Create an intermediate Y shaped wiring harness with the European plug on one end and 2 plug ins attached to each wire at the other end. Now if you plug in a trailer with 24v bulbs or LEDs, which can handle the current, (most LEDs can handle 12v or 24v but double check yours) you can use the Y simply as an adapter. If you borrow a trailer or like to rent the Y comes in handy. Connect the trailer as usual and then add a second set of lights to the second leg of the Y. I like to use magnetic base towing lights for the second set. Mount the lights wherever you like, on the trailer bumper or the roof of your truck. I built my adapter for less than $20.

Just some possibilities to consider.

Cheers, Clive

[dadnova]

I put a post earlier but it did not post, so here it is again.

I had a what I call a Brain Fart, the light bulb lit up.

I could just make a bracket to hold a 12v alternator as I have many of them, as they take little energy to spin it would not lower the HP of the engine, then I could wire it to charge 1 or even 2 Batteries, the Winch and every 12v item could be ran off this new 12v system as it would stand alone. It would also charge anytime the engine was running, it would sustain many 12v items with no issues.

What do you think?

[audiocontr]

I think you should search.: )

It's been done.

[krick3tt]

I have heard of this. Where do you put it?
I have a tap off the batteries to run 12V stuff and a 24 to 12 converter to run some other things, like the Webasto and the radio.

[Andre]

seen it done. 12v alternator was grounded internally as well as to the motor and created a "ghost" ground that bypassed the 24v switch and left power going to the dash. I had to put a battery cut out switch between the + 12v alternator post and the +post of the 12v back up battery.

This allowed the stock battery ground switch to isolate the truck ground when not running. When running, the 12v accessories had power but wouldn't charge the battery unless the circuit was closed.

I'm sure a 12v system can be isolated to work independently from the truck's 24v system. The problem lies in that not all accessories are insulated from grounded mounts(CB's, Sterios, Cigarette lighters). Additionally, Trying to mount an alternator without grounding it to the truck is a challenge in itself. It would be easier with a 12v generator riding against the tire like a bicycle.

[mm58]

Regarding the winch, one other option is to have it rewound for 24v. The relays/contactors should also be changed out to 24v. A DC motor shop will be able to do it for you. I checked (in Tucson) and was given an estimate of ~$100-110 to have it done (for the rewind only)