Wheel stud replacement

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Haf-e
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Wheel stud replacement

Post by Haf-e »

Has anyone changed there wheel studs out for longer ones?

How hard was it?

Any tips on doing it?

Thanks!
Haf-e

1971 Pinzgauer 710M

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Disc Brake Conversion Kits for 710 and 712 Pinzgauers
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NEWFISHER
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by NEWFISHER »

I would also like to change mine with the recent aftermarket wheel install. Any tips and sources for 14mm x 1.5 and length of studs appreciated
GRCameron
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by GRCameron »

Google "m14x1.5 wheel studs" and it will belch forth a host of options. You might want to purchase an original and make a few measurements to be sure the knurl is the correct size. http://www.pinzgauer.com/showdetails.ph ... 101343241/
George Cameron
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1979 Pinz 710M
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Sonarman
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by Sonarman »

Looking for information on longer wheel studs. I have aftermarket aluminum wheels that don't engage enough threads. Also do you have to remove axle to replace the studs or the be pressed off while on the vehicle?
Can anyone provide measurement for the length of stock stud?
Thanks in advance. Thanks
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GadgetPhreak
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by GadgetPhreak »

Chris - I have a bunch of wheel studs, check when you come over this weekend. If they are what you are looking for you are welcome to them. I think there's enough there for all of your wheels. I also have a set of TD tail lights you are welcome to if you want them, I switched to round LED.
King County Search & Rescue | Regional Special Vehicles Unit
1972 710M - Building up for SAR use
Follow my build, learn more, or contact me: http://www.sarpinz.com
Sonarman
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by Sonarman »

I spent a lot of time trying to locate longer studs found some dodge 3/4 ton that would probably work. The dodge one are a few thounds smaller in the serrated area so I was a little concerned. Then I found some Gorilla extended lug nuts. Problem using these was the clearance of the wheel holes is .609 and I needed .625 for the entended nut to go in. I called Trail Ready Wheels this morning at 0730 and actually got someone to answer. He said drilling out wheel to .625 5/8 inch was not uncommon. After doing that I did test fit with chrome nuts. Hopefully that solves the tearing of the lug nut threads due to lack of engagement.
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rmel
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by rmel »

I was about to spring for a set of 7 Ford Transit wheels for my 712 then decided to buy
just one to make sure there are no issues. Hmmm, the Wheel studs just seem
a bit too short for comfort. Yes, the lugs are open and cone not ball, so you can see
the lack of thread engagement just doesn't seem sufficient. Has anyone with Transit
wheels noticed this?
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK

Driver: Ron // KO0Q
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rmel
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by rmel »

Made some measurements. And a couple of PIX's attached.

The bolt length that extends for capture for Stock Pinz wheels is
approximately 18mm. However, the effective length for the Transit
wheel and cone seat is only 13mm.

Pictures say it all:
Stock captures ~10 1/2 threads on a M14x1.5mm.
Transit wheel ~ 7 1/2 threads on the M14x1.5mm.

Based on how these Transit wheels are stamped, this actually adds up.
At 7 1/2 threads that's < 12mm, you really want at least the bolt
diameter 14mm, captured in thread engagement.

So my thinking now on these Transit wheels is that it's marginal. One
would ideally want longer wheel studs by at least 5mm or more. Or
one would be hoping that M14 is overkill and 11mm to 12mm of thread
engagement is more than enough -- hmmm, glad I only bought one of
these wheels and not 7 :wink:
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Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK

Driver: Ron // KO0Q
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rmel
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by rmel »

Had some time between projects to look into this Stud length question for Transit Wheels.

I still contend that at least for this particular Transit wheel Manufactured "Road Ready Wheels"
it's right at minimum acceptable with less margin that one would really like.

Here's some new information.

Fastener design; Bolts and Nuts should be matched w.r.t. harness, e.g. a Class 8.8 Bolt with a Class 8 Nut.
The bolt/nut fastener should fail at the bolt first and not the nut threads. A Bolt breaks under tensile
force, Nuts threads fail under sheer force. Properly designed, a Nut sheer strength > Bolt tensile.
So all we need to know is how many threads meets that requirement, and how many threads are engaged
on the stud. (Note: this is a common machinists question w.r.t. a blind tapped hole)

Answer; seems to be 5 full threads minimum, for a Class 8 M14 x 1.5 mm Nut.

I placed such a nut on the stud to see engagement, it appears 5 threads are engaged and one thread exists.
It is important to note that at least one thread needs to exit the nut as the 1'st thread is cone tapered for
ease of engagement so therefore, the 1'st thread will NOT carry designed load.

So is this OK, I'd say just barley. Studs take wear so you would normally want at least 6 to 7 full threads
engaged to compensate for wear. It may be the case that other manufacturers of Transit wheels are stamped
in a way that does expose more threads. It would be nice to know from anyone who is sporting Transit wheels.
The wheel I have, also has a rather small opening that results in the nut cone not sitting in as deep as it could.
I may open that hole up 1mm with a 60 degree reamer to allow a deeper seat and pick up some more thread.
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK

Driver: Ron // KO0Q
MTPinz
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by MTPinz »

I just installed my Transit wheels today and took a couple pics of the thread engagement.
Here's a pic of the stock wheel, all torqued up with one nut removed.
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It has about .625" of stud protruding.

Here is a pic of the Transit wheel setup, again fully torqued with one nut removed.
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This has about .550" protruding.

I then took the difference in height between a ball nut fully seated vs it's overall length to see how much the nut goes into the wheel. This came in to be about .152"

And the same measurement with the factory Transit cone nut seated and it's overall length which was about .135"

So with measurements taken off of my setup, the difference between the stock wheel thread engagement vs the Transit wheel setup is about .090", that is, the Transit setup has approximately .090" less thread engagement than stock Pinz wheels/studs.

While the difference is something to acknowledge, it doesn't register to me as something to worry about. YMMV.
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rmel
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by rmel »

I think what this shows is that there is a difference between Transit wheel manufacturers.

The one wheel I had bought -- as an experiment -- has a profile around the stud hole
where it is visibly raised above the surface "mushroomed" AND also profiled on the drum
side such that it is NOT flush with the drum surface. Both these effects subtracted from
thread engagement to a significant extent, thus far less thread engagement.

By the looks of your wheel the surface mushrooming looks less and hard to tell from
your PIX but it also appears that it would mate more flush to the drum surface. This
would all add up to more thread engagement thus more margin.

The wheel manufacturer in my case was "Road Ready", which claims to be 100% to OEM spec's.
Do you know who manufactured your wheels?
Puller: 71' 710K 2.7L EFI aka Mozo
Follower: Sankey MK 3, 3/4 Tonne
Rescue Pinz: 73' 712MK

Driver: Ron // KO0Q
MTPinz
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Re: Wheel stud replacement

Post by MTPinz »

Interesting, that makes sense. The wheels I'm using are factory Ford takeoffs (stamped Ford on the surface) with the funky Ford lug nuts. They were included with my wheel purchase so I'm using them, plus it gives me the option of snapping on wheel covers too, lol.
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