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Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2016 2:08 pm
by Haf-e
Has anyone changed there wheel studs out for longer ones?

How hard was it?

Any tips on doing it?


Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2016 3:28 pm
I would also like to change mine with the recent aftermarket wheel install. Any tips and sources for 14mm x 1.5 and length of studs appreciated

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2016 2:01 pm
by GRCameron
Google "m14x1.5 wheel studs" and it will belch forth a host of options. You might want to purchase an original and make a few measurements to be sure the knurl is the correct size. ... 101343241/

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 2:55 pm
by Sonarman
Looking for information on longer wheel studs. I have aftermarket aluminum wheels that don't engage enough threads. Also do you have to remove axle to replace the studs or the be pressed off while on the vehicle?
Can anyone provide measurement for the length of stock stud?
Thanks in advance. Thanks

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Wed May 17, 2017 5:53 pm
by GadgetPhreak
Chris - I have a bunch of wheel studs, check when you come over this weekend. If they are what you are looking for you are welcome to them. I think there's enough there for all of your wheels. I also have a set of TD tail lights you are welcome to if you want them, I switched to round LED.

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 11:36 am
by Sonarman
I spent a lot of time trying to locate longer studs found some dodge 3/4 ton that would probably work. The dodge one are a few thounds smaller in the serrated area so I was a little concerned. Then I found some Gorilla extended lug nuts. Problem using these was the clearance of the wheel holes is .609 and I needed .625 for the entended nut to go in. I called Trail Ready Wheels this morning at 0730 and actually got someone to answer. He said drilling out wheel to .625 5/8 inch was not uncommon. After doing that I did test fit with chrome nuts. Hopefully that solves the tearing of the lug nut threads due to lack of engagement.

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Tue Nov 12, 2019 7:46 pm
by rmel
I was about to spring for a set of 7 Ford Transit wheels for my 712 then decided to buy
just one to make sure there are no issues. Hmmm, the Wheel studs just seem
a bit too short for comfort. Yes, the lugs are open and cone not ball, so you can see
the lack of thread engagement just doesn't seem sufficient. Has anyone with Transit
wheels noticed this?

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Wed Nov 13, 2019 1:57 pm
by rmel
Made some measurements. And a couple of PIX's attached.

The bolt length that extends for capture for Stock Pinz wheels is
approximately 18mm. However, the effective length for the Transit
wheel and cone seat is only 13mm.

Pictures say it all:
Stock captures ~10 1/2 threads on a M14x1.5mm.
Transit wheel ~ 7 1/2 threads on the M14x1.5mm.

Based on how these Transit wheels are stamped, this actually adds up.
At 7 1/2 threads that's < 12mm, you really want at least the bolt
diameter 14mm, captured in thread engagement.

So my thinking now on these Transit wheels is that it's marginal. One
would ideally want longer wheel studs by at least 5mm or more. Or
one would be hoping that M14 is overkill and 11mm to 12mm of thread
engagement is more than enough -- hmmm, glad I only bought one of
these wheels and not 7 :wink:
Ball-seat.jpg (226.1 KiB) Viewed 1919 times
Transit-Bolt.jpg (318.1 KiB) Viewed 1919 times

Re: Wheel stud replacement

Posted: Sun Dec 22, 2019 2:45 pm
by rmel
Had some time between projects to look into this Stud length question for Transit Wheels.

I still contend that at least for this particular Transit wheel Manufactured "Road Ready Wheels"
it's right at minimum acceptable with less margin that one would really like.

Here's some new information.

Fastener design; Bolts and Nuts should be matched w.r.t. harness, e.g. a Class 8.8 Bolt with a Class 8 Nut.
The bolt/nut fastener should fail at the bolt first and not the nut threads. A Bolt breaks under tensile
force, Nuts threads fail under sheer force. Properly designed, a Nut sheer strength > Bolt tensile.
So all we need to know is how many threads meets that requirement, and how many threads are engaged
on the stud. (Note: this is a common machinists question w.r.t. a blind tapped hole)

Answer; seems to be 5 full threads minimum, for a Class 8 M14 x 1.5 mm Nut.

I placed such a nut on the stud to see engagement, it appears 5 threads are engaged and one thread exists.
It is important to note that at least one thread needs to exit the nut as the 1'st thread is cone tapered for
ease of engagement so therefore, the 1'st thread will NOT carry designed load.

So is this OK, I'd say just barley. Studs take wear so you would normally want at least 6 to 7 full threads
engaged to compensate for wear. It may be the case that other manufacturers of Transit wheels are stamped
in a way that does expose more threads. It would be nice to know from anyone who is sporting Transit wheels.
The wheel I have, also has a rather small opening that results in the nut cone not sitting in as deep as it could.
I may open that hole up 1mm with a 60 degree reamer to allow a deeper seat and pick up some more thread.